I was in Split for a few days early in May 2025, and I loved getting lost among the historic streets in the old town. At one of these moments, I stumbled upon a special place. I found it strange enough to add to my list of modern shops with ancient ruins, like the McDonalds I visited in Rome and the Zara in Athens.

Below, you can read what I learned about this unusual supermarket in Split.

Split’s Most Surprising Stop: The Unesco Supermarket in Diocletian’s Palace

Lodged within Split’s historic core on the Mala Papalićeva Palača ground floor, this isn’t your average supermarket. The building is a treasure, a Gothic structure believed to have originated in the 13th century.

The Mala Papalićeva Palača is part of a larger historical narrative. This palace is located within the boundaries of Diocletian’s Palace, a historic complex that forms the very heart of Split. This sprawling 4th-century palace, built by the Roman emperor Diocletian as his retirement residence, is a remarkably preserved marvel of ancient architecture.

The entire historic center of Split, including Diocletian’s Palace, was rightfully inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1979, recognizing its outstanding universal value.

So, how did a modern supermarket chain set up shop in such a historically significant location? When the Austrian grocery chain Billa (which has since been acquired by SPAR) determined the 2,500-square-foot ground floor of the Mala Papalićeva Palača for a new store in 2014, it raised more than a few eyebrows among Split’s residents. At least, that is what I was told when I asked a tour guide about it.

Many locals had mixed feelings about the arrival of a supermarket in such a beloved historical site. They expressed concerns regarding the suitability of a commercial grocery store operating within the ancient walls. And I can completely understand these concerns.

City officials also voiced worries about the practical implications, such as the logistics of daily deliveries rumbling through historic alleyways and the potential need for new infrastructure in a building that had previously undergone careful conservation, partly funded by the Ministry of Culture. The contrast between modern signage and refrigerator units against Gothic pillars is striking.

Despite the initial surprise and ongoing discussions, this Unesco-protected Supermarket in Split has become a peculiar fixture in the city. For travelers like me, it offers a moment of surreal juxtaposition – one minute, you’re admiring ancient Roman stonework and the next, you’re deciding which brand of beer to buy, all under the same historical watch.

While the city’s magnificent architecture and rich heritage are the primary draws for visitors, stumbling upon this supermarket provides a memorable, if somewhat unusual, travel anecdote. It underlines how Split is not merely an open-air museum but a living, breathing city where daily life intermingles directly with its ancient past.

It’s important to clarify: the supermarket wasn’t directly awarded UNESCO protection. Instead, it benefits from this status by its location within a protected historic monument. This unique situation means you are shopping within a slice of history globally recognized for its cultural importance, leading to the colloquial title of the Unesco-protected Supermarket in Split.

Next time you wander the incredible passageways of Diocletian’s Palace, keep an eye out for a SPAR sign on the street. Popping into a Unesco Supermarket in Split offers more than just a chance to grab a snack; it’s an opportunity to witness a unique crossroad of antiquity and modernity, where the echoes of nobility meet the everyday needs of the 21st century.

It’s a small yet fascinating example of how historic cities continue to adapt and evolve, sometimes in the most unexpected ways. Follow the map below to find your way into this unusual piece of Split.

Unesco Supermarket Split: Where Ancient Walls Meet Aisles of Groceries

Šubićeva 5 7, 21000
Split, Croatia

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Today, some of these structures still stand as stark reminders of a dark chapter, offering a chilling glance into the ambitions and ideologies of the Third Reich. If you want to know about Nazi architecture in Berlin, you have come to the right place.

Berlin’s Dark Legacy: Exploring What Remains of Nazi Architecture Today

When I moved to Berlin in 2012, I wasn’t expecting to see so many bullet holes left over from the Second World War. But they are all around town; you just have to know where to look, and you will see them. I believe the same thing happened with Nazi Architecture in Berlin. Once you know the patterns, the structures and the history behind them, you will spot them all around town.

Below, you will learn a little about some of them, including the most important ones still standing today.

The Luftwaffe Building on Wilhelmstrasse: A Monument to Air Power

Our journey begins with the former Luftwaffe Ministry, also known at the time as the Reichsluftfahrtministerium. This colossal structure once symbolized the might of the Nazi air force. With its imposing facade and expansive scale, this building reflects the regime’s obsession with power and control.

The Ministry was responsible for developing and producing all aircraft designed and built in Germany during the Third Reich. It oversaw all aspects related to both military and civilian aircraft. Its top priority was military aviation, particularly for the Luftwaffe.

Its sheer size was intended to intimidate and impress, a memorial to the Nazis’ desire to project an image of invincibility that still stands on Wilhelmstrasse. Today, it houses the German Finance Ministry, the Bundesministerium der Finanzen in German.

The 1936 Berlin Olympics: A Stage for Nazi Propaganda

The 1936 Berlin Olympics, while celebrated as a sporting event, served as a powerful tool for Nazi propaganda.

The games were designed to showcase a new Germany, aiming to surpass the Los Angeles Games of 1932. To achieve this, Berlin built a new stadium for track and field events, which has a capacity of 100,000 seats and is still in use today. Additionally, the city constructed six new gymnasiums and several other smaller arenas and sports facilities.

The meticulously planned event showcased the regime’s supposed efficiency and modernity, masking its sinister intentions. The Olympic Stadium itself, with its monumental architecture, became a symbol of Nazi power.

Albert Speer Street Lights in Berlin

Check out the Albert Speer street lights to discover some of Berlin’s lesser-known design pieces. As we all know, Albert Speer was a prominent architect in Nazi Germany and oversaw much of Berlin’s redevelopment plan.

Starting at Tiergarten S-Bahn station, you’ll notice a shift in the streetlight design as you walk toward Charlottenburger Tor. These sleek lights line Straße des 17. Juni, Bismarckstrasse, and Kaiserdamm, ending at Theodor-Heuss Platz.

Originally named Adolf-Hitler-Platz, the square was central to Speer’s vision for the city. Today, while the square has a different name, the street lights remain.

The Germania Project and the Schwerbelastungskorper

The “Germania” project, Hitler’s vision for a transformed Berlin, was to create a monumental city reflecting his version of the glory of the Third Reich. While much of the project remained unrealized, its remnants can still be seen in the city’s architecture.

There is a place between Kreuzberg and Schöneberg with a peculiar German name. The Schwerbelastungskorper, or the heavy load-bearing body, was placed there to test the ground for the planned Triumphal Arch. Today is a mournful reminder of this grandiose but ultimately failed vision.

Weirdly, if you have seen the TV series The Man in the High Castle on Amazon Prime, you have seen a few samples of what this city would look like.

A Place of Mobilization in the shape of the Messe Berlin

Messe Berlin, a sprawling exhibition center, played a crucial role in the Nazi war machine. It served as a hub for mobilization and propaganda, hosting rallies and exhibitions that promoted the regime’s ideology.

The immense scale of the complex serves as a reminder of the Nazi regime’s extraordinary capacity to meticulously organize and exert control over vast populations. Its layout and numerous facilities reflect the efficiency of its operations and illustrate the chilling extent to which it could manage resources, personnel, and the logistics of an entire bureaucratic system dedicated to its goals.

Interestingly, today, one of the most unusual buildings in Berlin stands next to Messe Berlin, which is called ICC Berlin. Based on the pictures, I often go there for ITB, the World’s Leading Travel Trade Show.

Tempelhof Airport as a Gateway to Power

Tempelhof Airport, significantly expanded during the Nazi era, was intended to be a gateway to the new “Germania.” Its massive terminal building, sweeping curves and monumental proportions reflect the regime’s ambition to create a world-class capital.

The airport’s design also incorporated military features, highlighting the Nazis’ focus on militarization. And I love that today, it’s a public park close to one of the most diverse neighborhoods in Berlin: Neukölln.

The ensemble of buildings at Fehrbelliner Platz

Fehrbelliner Platz was largely undeveloped until the 1920s and was planned as a large horseshoe-shaped town square.

Architect Helmut Remmelmann designed buildings in a neoclassical style. Unlike other buildings constructed in the same period on the square, this one features conventional brickwork and a plastered façade. The circular courtyard, lined with columns, takes inspiration from the police headquarters in Copenhagen, which was built between 1919 and 1924.

Today, the original Nazi-era buildings contrast strongly with the modernist-looking U-Bahn station. Every time I pass the area, I have to take pictures.

Interestingly, the structure that used to be the German Labour Front building was the headquarters of the British occupying forces Lancaster House until 1953.

Bunkers and Flak Towers: Defending the Third Reich

The construction of bunkers and Flak towers across Berlin reveals the Nazis’ obsession with defense and security. These massive concrete structures, designed to withstand air raids, served as shelters and defensive platforms.

Many of these old bunkers are still standing in Berlin today—so many that a few years ago, I decided to hunt some down and write a full article about them.

The Legacy of Nazi Architecture

The architectural legacy of the Nazi era in Berlin is complex and multifaceted. While often imposing and intimidating, these structures serve as important historical documents, offering valuable insights into the regime’s ideology and ambitions. By exploring these sites, we can gain a deeper understanding of this dark chapter in history and ensure that its lessons are not forgotten.

By visiting these sites, tourists and locals alike can learn more about the history of Berlin, the impact of the Nazi regime and the many mistakes made at the time.

Walking Through History: Tracing Nazi Architecture in Modern Berlin

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We passed by bike a few times on our way to Adlershof, and we always wondered what it would look like from inside the fences. We knew about the abandoned Flugplatz Johannisthal for years and even tried to find our way a few years ago. Still, we only made it in early January 2021.

It was with some surprise that we found out how much this place looked like a destroyed wasteland, even though there was a police station just across from the main building.

Before we share some of the pictures we took of Flugplatz Johannisthal as a lost place, we have to tell you some of the histories of this place. Maybe you will understand better why we believe it’s so sad to see it as the wasteland it is today.

How the Flugplatz Johannisthal started

Located between Johannisthal and Adlershof, in what used to be the outskirts of Berlin, the airfield opened as Motorflugplatz Johannisthal-Adlershof. The name connected with the fact that this was the place for powered flights.

This happened because the German Army at the time didn’t want to see hangars being built at the parade grounds on Tempelhof. Before the airport was built, the area was used as a training field for the German Army. Only in the 1920s did construction start for the airport, and it became Flughafen Berlin-Tempelhof.

Berlin had some history with flights since Otto Lilienthal, a German aviation pioneer, undertook his first gliding experiments on an artificial hill called Fliegeberg.

This place is called Lilienthal Park and can be visited in Lichterfelde.

Returning to Flugplatz Johannisthal, the airfield opened in September 1909 and was the second commercial airfield in Germany. Only the August-Euler airfield in Darmstadt since it opened a year before, in October 1908.

Before the First World War, the Flugplatz Johannisthal had two large airship hangars by Zeppelin and Parseval. Also, a grandstand fitted more than two thousand visitors who used to flock to the area to see the airplanes landing.

This was so popular that the airfield became an international attraction, with people visiting Berlin to watch the planes fly. This tourism helped finance it even though many people jumped the surrounding fences.

Many of the first aviation events in Germany happened at Flugplatz Johannisthal. The first cross-country flight over Germany ended on the airfield when Hubert Latham landed on September 27, 1909. The first Deutschlandflug occurred there as well.

Also, the worst accident in airship travel at the time happened at Flugplatz Johannisthal in October 1913 when a Zeppelin caught fire and crashed, killing 28 people.

The first continuous flight lasting more than 24 hours also occurred there with Reinhold Böhm in July 1914. Another first was Amelie Beese, who trained there and became the first German woman to earn a pilot’s license.

When the First World War started, the airfield became a military operation. The entire area was used as an industrial park for surveillance and combat aircraft in different plants. The production at Flugplatz Johannisthal was so massive that over 25% of the 48,000 planes produced for the war came from there.

After the war’s end, Flugplatz Johannisthal was used for airmail between Berlin and Weimar, the location of the National Assembly in the Weimar Republic. Passenger service followed later, and German President Friedrich Ebert seemed one of the first guests.

Everything changed for Flugplatz Johannisthal in 1923 when Tempelhof opened as an airport. After that, it was only used as a military airfield. This included some secret tests for the rearmament of Germany during the Nazi era.

After the Second World War, the airport was operated by the Soviet Air Force and completely closed to the outside public. They moved to Berlin-Schönefeld Airport in 1952, and Flugplatz Johannisthal was later used by the East German National People’s Army as a military training ground.

During those years, the Academy of Sciences of the GDR moved to the south side of the airfield. It employed more than five thousand researchers, scientists, and technicians. Today, a part of the area is known as the Aerodynamic Park. It is a part of the Humboldt University campus in Berlin.

Also, from 1950 to 1991, VEB Kühlautomat Berlin used the area to make refrigerators and air compressors, which is a little unusual for us.

flugplatz johannisthal lost place

The Flugplatz Johannisthal was closed in 1995, and the area was split into three large zones. The abandoned site is on the north side of the airfield with the large hangar and the wasteland.

The landing strips became the Landscape Park Johannisthal/Adlershof, a conservation area and a park with some amenities. You can see the Aerodynamic Park and some new buildings in the south.

This exciting place to explore is still abandoned in the middle of Berlin. But be careful since many buildings have seen better days and a police station across the street.

My last visit to Flugplatz Johannisthal in April 2025

In late April 2025, I went back to Flugplatz Johannisthal to take some pictures, and I was surprised by what I saw there. I don’t pass by the area often, and the last time I was around the park and the abandoned buildings was several months ago. Because of that, I was surprised to see that most of the abandoned buildings and structures around Flugplatz Johannisthal are completely gone.

Only a few of the buildings were still in place during my last visit, and they won’t last long. There are machines around the lot, recycling containers and some cut steel. I’m curious to learn what will happen with the lot and the entire area since I researched and couldn’t find anything on the topic. There were no signs or information around the fenced area, so I will keep my eye open for some news.

If you plan on going to Flugplatz Johannisthal shortly, you are already too late. Almost all the images you saw in this article are now part of history.

Flugplatz Johannisthal as a Lost Place: Exploring Germany’s first commercial airfield

Arthur-Müller-Straße 24, 12487
Berlin

If you are interested in what we wrote about other abandoned airports and airfields around Berlin, you will love to read about the Flugplatz Oranienburg, Flugplatz Rangsdorf, and Flugplatz Brand.

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From April 11 to May 25, 2025, this installation invites you to explore light, sound, and the stories hidden in a former four-star hotel that will soon be torn down. I was there during the Easter holiday and am here to share my experience! By the end, I know you’ll want to go there too.

Organized by the imaginative minds behind acclaimed Berlin events like The Dark Rooms Vertical, Himmel unter Berlin, and the LOST Art Festival, Clara and Sven Sauer have once again crafted an experience designed to pull visitors away from the every day and deeply engage them with art. Their collective has shaped Berlin’s cultural landscape for several years, consistently finding unconventional spaces to challenge perceptions.

The Dark Rooms Hotel continues this tradition, taking over a building steeped in its silent history.

Dark Rooms Hotel Berlin: Explore Light, Sound, and Shadow in a Lost Place

Imagine a place that once pulsed with life—a West Berlin hotel where countless people checked in and out, carrying their hopes, dreams, joys, and sorrows.

Conversations echoed in the lobby, celebrations unfolded in its rooms, and quiet moments of reflection happened behind closed doors. This building served as a container for human experience. Before it stood empty and orphaned, it retains the invisible imprint of those past lives. Today, these rooms still carry these invisible stories within them.

Before the wrecking ball swings and the structure vanishes forever, The Dark Rooms Hotel grants visitors one last chance to walk its floors. But this isn’t a typical urban exploration; it’s a curated artistic intervention.

Across ten levels inside this nine-story building, 15 international artists have installed captivating light and sound works. Notable contributors include Rabih Mroué, Jin Lee, Markus Graf, Wiebke Maria Wachmann, and Yasuhiro Chida. Many pieces are being presented to the public for the first time in Berlin within the unique context of the Dark Rooms Hotel.

The Immersive Sensory Journey of the Dark Rooms Hotel in Berlin

True to the Dark Rooms concept, the exhibition happens mainly in darkness. This deliberate choice serves an effective purpose. By minimizing visual input, the experience drives visitors to rely more heavily on their other senses. This concept is made clear in the short introduction made when I entered. The curated soundscapes resonate differently in the near-blackness.

The darkness heightens awareness, making the textures more exciting and the enveloping sounds more evident. It becomes an environment where introspection and heightened perception thrive.

The artworks within the Dark Rooms Hotel are designed to do more than just visually or aurally stimulate. These installations aim to touch, provoke thought, and even unsettle, bringing submerged themes to the surface through their lights, shadows, and sounds. Sometimes, they even feel like a trip into outer space, as seen in some of the pictures I selected here.

This abandoned hotel, filled with memories, amplifies the impact of these explorations on the overlooked corners of human experience. Experiencing these works within the atmospheric shell of the Dark Rooms Hotel provides a context that a traditional gallery setting simply cannot replicate. And I loved every minute of it.

Ephemeral Art: Why You Must Visit Berlin’s Dark Rooms Hotel Before It Disappears

What makes the Dark Rooms Hotel particularly thrilling is its ephemeral nature. The exhibition window is tight – just a little over a month, with its doors closing to the public on May 25, 2025. Shortly after the final visitor departs, the building itself will face demolition, and there is nothing that we can do about it.

For those seeking unique cultural experiences and art lovers drawn to unconventional presentations, The Dark Rooms Hotel offers an exceptional journey into the heart of Berlin’s creative spirit. It’s a chance to engage your senses, contemplate hidden stories, and explore a fascinating space during its final moments.

From April 11 to May 25, 2025, this installation invites you to explore light and sound in a forgotten location in Berlin. Don’t miss the opportunity to enter the shadows before they and the hotel disappear.

Step Inside the Shadows of The Dark Rooms Hotel

www.thedarkrooms.de

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And here I’m thrilled to share some results from that day. While navigating Tempelhof’s scale with a camera, I was drawn to the contrasts—the stark white radio tower against the summer sky, the wildflowers pushing up near old tarmac markings, and nuanced reminders of its aviation past scattered across the green.

Capturing the perfect alignment wasn’t always easy, especially with the old radio tower. Still, trying with this specific film felt like part of the adventure.

Shooting Expired AGFA HDC 100 Film at Berlin’s Tempelhof Field

This outing marked my first dedicated analog photo exploration of Tempelhof. Living relatively close by, I often take its presence for granted. Except for barbecues. And it opened my head for this former airport as a place to explore analog photography. I have been there many times after this first photo walk.  

But seeing it through the viewfinder of the Canon F-1, knowing I had only 36 exposures on an uncommon, expired roll of AGFA HDC 100, sharpened my focus. It motivated me to look closer and appreciate details I might otherwise overlook. After that, Tempelhof has become one of my go-to local spots for testing new (or old!) film stocks and lenses. It’s a readily accessible canvas for analog experimentation.

It’s an ISO 100, C-41 process film originally available only for 35mm cameras. Based on my experiences, AGFA HDC 100 rendered some distorted colors with a pleasing warm tone. It could be the sunny afternoon when I used it. Still, it felt clean and precise, even with the unpredictability introduced by its age.

Shooting heavily expired film, especially color negative like this AGFA HDC 100, is always an exercise in managing expectations. Especially because I had to expose it to around ISO 25 due to its age. You might encounter color shifts, increased grain, or variations in sensitivity. But that’s part of the appeal! You’re working with something that has its own history and unpredictable character.

My goal wasn’t technical perfection but rather to see how this specific roll of AGFA HDC 100 would interpret the unique light and atmosphere of a Berlin summer day at Tempelhof through the reliable mechanics of the Canon F-1. And I can clearly say that I accomplished that.

AGFA HDC 100: A Blast from the Past on an Analog Photowalk in Tempelhof

The Safelight Berlin Photowalk provided the perfect context—a communal experience focused on the joy of shooting film. Slowing down, manually focusing, metering the light, and making each frame count felt right in a place as expansive and contemplative as Tempelhof. Discovering new vantage points and compositions within this familiar landscape was incredibly rewarding. If you are interested in photo walks like this one, watch what Safelight posts on Instagram!

While finding the AGFA HDC 100 today requires patience and perhaps a bit of luck on auction sites, shooting it was genuinely enjoyable. It offered a different look and a distinct color signature from a bygone era of film production. I managed to get my hands on more rolls after shooting this one since I was quite pleased with the results.

For those seeking a currently available alternative with a similar speed, the Kodak Gold 200, might be considered. However, they will certainly have their own different color characteristics.

Exploring Tempelhof with this particular camera combination and an expired AGFA HDC 100 film was a fantastic reminder of why analog photography continues to fascinate me. It connects you to the process, the place, and even the history of the materials you’re using.

If you can, grab a film camera, wander around Tempelhof, and see what stories you can capture. And if you ever stumble upon a roll of AGFA HDC 100, give it a shot – you might be surprised by the results!

Rediscovering Tempelhof with a Canon F-1 and Expired AGFA HDC 100

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This iconic spot gained its nickname from Christopher Nolan’s 2010 mind-bending thriller Inception.

Remember that scene? Ariadne, the architect of Dreams, played by Elliot Page, is learning to manipulate the dream world alongside Cobb, played by Leonardo DiCaprio.

So, if you want to follow in Cobb and Ariadne’s footsteps, minus Mal’s subconscious projections and startling appearances, I’m here to tell you you can.

The real-world Inception Bridge is one of Paris’s most visually striking river crossings: the Pont de Bir-Hakeim.

Where Dreams Met Reality: Filming on the “Inception Bridge”

The pivotal scene, in which Ariadne’s mirror trick leads to a confrontation with Cobb’s projection of his late wife, Mal, was filmed directly on the Pont de Bir-Hakeim. A bridge that spans the Seine River in western Paris, elegantly connecting the city’s 15th and 16th arrondissements in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower.

Its distinctive architecture, particularly the lower pedestrian level surrounded by iron colonnades supporting the upper metro viaduct, provided the perfect and slightly surreal backdrop for Inception‘s exploration of dreamscapes. The repeating pillars themselves suggest the infinite reflections Ariadne creates, and it even felt weird to be there when I visited Paris in March 2022 and took these pictures.

Finding this famous Inception Bridge is easy. It’s conveniently located just a 10-minute walk from the Eiffel Tower and offers fantastic views of the iconic landmark.

The Inception Bridge: Finding the Real Pont de Bir-Hakeim in Paris

The Pont de Bir-Hakeim possesses a rich history and unique design that make it fascinating in its own right. Although its role as the Inception Bridge brought it global fame, the bridge’s history goes back to the early 1900s.

Constructed between 1903 and 1905, this steel arch bridge replaced an earlier footbridge from 1878. Its ingenious design incorporates two levels. The lower level accommodates cars, cyclists, and pedestrians, offering a wonderful stroll across the Seine. The upper level is a viaduct carrying Line 6 of the Paris Metro, providing passengers with superb elevated views as they cross the river. Watching the Metro trains glide above adds another layer of dynamic energy to the scene.

The bridge, stretching 237 meters long, consists of two sections in the middle of the Île aux Cygnes. This narrow artificial island is famous for housing a replica of the Statue of Liberty at its downstream end.

Designed under the direction of Louis Biette and decorated by Jean-Camille Formigé (who also contributed to other Parisian landmarks like the Viaduc d’Austerlitz), the bridge showcases beautiful early 20th-century steelwork. The viaduct above is supported by metal colonnades, except over the Île aux Cygnes, which rests on a masonry arch. Looking closely at this central arch, you will spot four stone statues depicting Science, Labour, Electricity, and Commerce.

Originally christened the Pont de Passy after the former commune it leads to, the bridge was renamed in 1948. Its current name, Pont de Bir-Hakeim, commemorates the Battle of Bir Hakeim in 1942, a significant engagement in which Free French forces bravely fought against the German Afrika Korps in Libya during World War II. Commemorative plaques on the bridge honor this history.

Paris’s Inception Bridge: More Than Just a Movie Location

Visiting the Pont de Bir-Hakeim offers a multi-layered experience. Film buffs will relish standing on the exact spot that became the Inception Bridge, perhaps even trying to capture their own reflective photos beneath the colonnades.

Photographers flock here for the unparalleled views of the Eiffel Tower, framed beautifully by the bridge’s structure, especially at sunrise or sunset. Architecture enthusiasts will appreciate the elegant engineering and decorative details. And you can see from my pictures here that this is also a popular location for wedding photographers.

While Inception gave it a memorable moniker, the Pont de Bir-Hakeim has also appeared in other films, including Last Tango in Paris and National Treasure: Book of Secrets. And I remember it quite well from an episode of Parks and Recreation that became some sort of meme.

Next time you’re in Paris, seek out the Pont de Bir-Hakeim. Whether you call it by its official name or fondly think of it as the Inception Bridge, its blend of cinematic history, architectural beauty, and stunning views makes it an unforgettable stop.

From Dreams to Reality: Your Guide to the Inception Bridge aka the Pont de Bir-Hakeim

Pont de Bir-Hakeim, 75015
Paris, France

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This unassuming monument marks the vicinity of what was once Berlin’s only official SS concentration camp, a place of immense suffering hidden in plain sight.

I have been passing by the Columbia-Haus Memorial on my way to work by bike for years. It took me a stop at a traffic light to wonder what that unusual sculpture meant. That is how I learned about the story I will share below.

Remembering Columbia-Haus: Berlin’s Forgotten Concentration Camp Near Tempelhof

Walking along Columbiadamm, near the corner of Golßener Straße, you’ll encounter a steel sculpture erected in 1994. Designed by Georg Seibert, this structure isn’t grand or ornate and can be easily ignored by those who pass by the area on the way to Tempelhof. Instead, its power lies in its stark symbolism.

Almost three meters high, it evokes the shape of a house, yet it feels fractured and incomplete. Facing the busy street, it presents a closed facade, but towards the sidewalk, where pedestrians pass, it opens up.

The design features four parallel steel walls, creating narrow, confined spaces. This evokes the oppressive feeling of cramped prison cells, hinting at the grim reality within the original Columbia-Haus. The outer wall and roof are deliberately missing, suggesting violation and exposure.

However, historical records indicate that the actual site of the Columbia-Haus was about 150 meters west of the memorial, on the opposite side of the street, on land now part of the former Tempelhof Airport grounds.

For years, the exact location lacked any marker. However, plans were set for September 2024 to install a “no longer visible” installation directly on the embankment at the historic site, finally marking the precise location where the atrocities occurred. This addition further solidifies the area as a place of memory.

Today, if you pass by the area, pay attention to the signs right by Tempelhof. The memorial plaques are shown in the pictures below. They share historical images of what Columbia-Haus used to look like and the history behind everything.

Echoes of Terror: The Story and Memorial of Berlin’s Columbia-Haus

To get what the memorial is all about, you need to look into the tough history of the building it represents. The story of the Columbia-Haus began not with the Nazis but in 1896 when it was constructed as Berlin’s third military detention center, known at the time as Militär-Arrestanstalt. Part of a larger barracks complex, it punished soldiers garrisoned in southern Berlin for acts of disobedience. It contained 156 single jail cells, a guard room, a courthouse, and official living quarters.

After World War I, Tempelhofer Feld Prison was repurposed and renamed in 1919. Its final pre-Nazi identity came in 1927 when it was christened Columbia-Haus. This name honored the “Columbia,” an aircraft that famously landed on the adjacent Tempelhofer Feld after a transatlantic flight that same year. The street outside was renamed Columbiastrasse (today’s Columbiadamm) in 1929.

By the late 1920s, the prison was deemed outdated, falling short of the Weimar Republic’s sanitary standards, and was closed.

The Nazi Era: From Gestapo Prison to Concentration Camp

However, the closure was short-lived. The rise of the Nazi regime in 1933 brought waves of arrests targeting political opponents, including Communists, Social Democrats, trade unionists, intellectuals, and anyone suspected of resistance. Existing prisons quickly became overcrowded.

The Gestapo (Geheime Staatspolizei, or Secret State Police), established in April 1933, needed space. Their notorious “house prison” at Prinz-Albrecht-Strasse 8 (now the site of the Topography of Terror museum) was filled beyond capacity. And, in the summer of 1933, the dilapidated, empty Columbia-Haus was reactivated for them to use. It became an auxiliary prison under Gestapo authority, guarded by the ruthless SS (Schutzstaffel), Hitler’s fiercely loyal paramilitary organization.

Initially guarded by the SS Death’s Head Unit Brandenburg, the conditions were immediately horrific. The 156 single jai cells soon held up to 450 prisoners under inhumane circumstances. Screams from within were reportedly audible outside.

Columbiadamm’s Hidden History: The Memorial for the Columbia-Haus Victims

Kurt Hiller, a Jewish writer, pacifist, and socialist, provided an early account of exile. Imprisoned in July 1933 as “Protection Prisoner 231,” he described the Columbia-Haus as a “blood and filth hole” where he spent nearly three and a half months. His testimony, like others, paints a picture of arbitrary brutality, constant fear, humiliation, and torture.

Jewish prisoners, from the outset, faced particularly vicious treatment, singled out for abuse and mockery. Homosexual men were increasingly imprisoned from mid-1934 following raids related to the “Röhm affair“..

The Columbia-Haus operated in a sphere of complete lawlessness. Though technically a prison, it functioned as an early, brutal concentration camp. The terror inflicted by the Gestapo and SS was so extreme that, incredibly, in September 1934, official orders were issued banning “harassment” and “torture” – a directive utterly out of step with the reality of the Nazi camp system but indicative of the particularly unchecked sadism practiced there. Hitler’s personal intervention ensured the judiciary turned a blind eye.

In December 1934, a significant shift occurred. Heinrich Himmler, head of the SS and Gestapo, placed the Columbia-Haus under the authority of Theodor Eicke’s Inspectorate of Concentration Camps. It was officially designated Konzentrationslager Columbia. This integrated it into the burgeoning, centralized concentration camp system being established across the Reich, governed by Eicke’s brutal regulations first implemented at Dachau.

Konzentrationslager Columbia became the only official SS concentration camp within Berlin’s city limits.

It maintained a precise function as a detention center for prisoners interrogated at the Gestapo headquarters, with transports running between the two locations multiple times a day. Over its three-and-a-half-year existence as a Gestapo prison and then concentration camp, more than 8,000 men passed through its doors.

Many prominent figures were incarcerated here, including Social Democrats Ernst Heilmann and Franz Neumann, Communists Erich Honecker (later leader of East Germany) and Werner Seelenbinder, lawyer Hans Litten, Rabbi Leo Baeck, cabaret artist Werner Finck, and Robert Kempner, who would later serve as a prosecutor at the Nuremberg Trials.

The commandants used the Columbia-Haus as a proving ground. Karl Otto Koch, infamous for his later command roles at Sachsenhausen, Buchenwald, and Majdanek, honed his cruelty here. His meticulously kept “service album,” filled with photos, offers a chilling perpetrator’s view of daily life and the prisoners within KZ Columbia. The SS guards, too, received their brutal training at this facility.

Konzentrationslager Columbia closed down in November 1936. Its demise was driven by two factors. Firstly, the newly constructed Sachsenhausen concentration camp near Oranienburg was ready. Designed partly within the Columbia-Haus itself and built by prisoners from Columbia and Esterwegen, Sachsenhausen represented the “modern,” expandable model camp Himmler envisioned, replacing older, dilapidated facilities. The remaining Columbia-Haus prisoners were transferred there.

Secondly, the Columbia-Haus building stood directly in the path of the Nazis’ grandiose plans to expand Tempelhof into a monumental “world airport.” In the spring or summer of 1938, the former prison and concentration camp was demolished, erased from the landscape to make way for the airport expansion and the widened Columbiadamm.

The exact number of people murdered within the Columbia-Haus through torture, execution, or calculated neglect remains unknown, and it might be impossible to calculate. The perpetrators largely escaped justice for the specific crimes committed there.

Beyond the Park: Visiting the Memorial to the Columbia-Haus Today

Standing by Georg Seibert’s sculpture today, near the edge of the now-public Tempelhofer Feld Park, requires a conscious imagination. The sounds are of city traffic and people enjoying the park, starkly contrasting the screams that once echoed here. The memorial doesn’t replicate the horror but strongly prompts visitors to acknowledge the history embedded in this ground.

Visiting the Columbia-Haus memorial is an opportunity to confront a less-discussed aspect of Nazi terror within Berlin itself. It highlights the pace with which the regime established sites of brutal repression and the transition from chaotic early terror to a systematized network of concentration camps. It reminds us that history’s darkest chapters often occurred not in remote locations but amid urban life, later obscured by development and the passage of time.

The Columbia-Haus may no longer be standing, but its story lives on through the memories of those who experienced it. This memorial helps keep that story vital to Berlin’s identity. It serves as a place to remember, commemorate, and warn against the recurrence of such barbarity.

Echoes of Terror: Visiting the Memorial to Berlin’s Columbia-Haus

Columbiadamm 77, 10965 Berlin

www.thf33-45.de

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Far from a typical residential area, Alexandra Road is an experience, an urban landscape that challenges and engages.

I was in London twice in the summer of 2024, and one of my goals during those trips was to explore a few of the city’s many brutalist wonders. I had been to the Barbican many times before and wanted to see what else I could find there.

The Alexandra Road Estate was one of the most interesting places I found during my research. On a Sunday afternoon, I took some friends to the area, and we took way too many pictures of this gorgeous concrete marvel.

Rowley Way: Exploring the Iconic Alexandra Road Estate

The Alexandra Road Estate’s origins trace back to the ambitious vision of the Metropolitan Borough of Camden, formed in 1964. This diverse borough, encompassing Hampstead, Holborn, and St. Pancras, sought to create high-quality social housing that reflected the progressive spirit of the era.

Under Sydney Cook’s leadership, the Camden Department of Urban Architecture became a hub for innovative housing projects. Alexandra Road was one of its most prominent achievements.

Neave Brown‘s design for Alexandra Road, conceived in 1968, aimed to redefine urban living. He envisioned a community where residents had direct access to communal spaces and private outdoor areas, fostering a sense of belonging.

The estate’s layout, consisting of three parallel blocks running east to west, was carefully planned to address the challenges of its location. Bordered by the West Coast Main Line railway tracks, the estate required a design that mitigated noise and vibration.

Alexandra Road Estate: Urban Living, Reimagined

The most recognized feature of Alexandra Road is its eight-story ziggurat-style block, designed to act as an acoustic barrier. This stepped structure, resting on rubber pads to minimize vibration, shields the inner part of the estate from the noise of passing trains.

Construction of Alexandra Road began in 1972, but the project faced significant challenges. The complex design, unexpected foundation problems, and high inflation led to substantial cost overruns.

There was even a public inquiry in 1978 that investigated these issues, highlighting the complexities of managing such an ambitious project during economic instability. Despite these challenges, the inquiry did not find Neave Brown guilty of mismanagement.

The Alexandra Road Estate shows how architecture can shape social interactions. The communal spaces and pedestrian-friendly layout encourage residents to connect with each other, creating a strong sense of community.

Though initially problematic, the concrete has become a defining characteristic, giving the complex its distinctive Brutalist aesthetic. This estate’s design is an influential example of how thoughtful planning can improve the quality of life in urban environments.

When you visit London, take the time to explore Alexandra Road. It’s a place where history, architecture, and community converge, offering a unique and memorable experience that will stay long after you leave.

Today, Alexandra Road is recognized as a significant architectural achievement. In 1993, it was granted Grade II listed status, a perpetual proof of its architectural and historical importance.

London’s Brutalist Architectural Gem: The Alexandra Road Estate

Visiting Alexandra Road offers a memorable perspective on London’s architectural history. With its stepped terraces and communal spaces, the estate’s fearless design represents a vision of urban living that remains relevant today.

Walking along Rowley Way, one can appreciate the estate’s scale, concrete textures and the thought that went into its design. Integrating public spaces, such as the small park between the second and third rows of dwellings, highlights the estate’s commitment to creating a cohesive community.

The estate’s history, from its ambitious beginnings to its eventual recognition as a landmark, offers helpful insights into the challenges and victories of social housing design. The concrete structures, the stepped terraces and the overall design provide a raw and bold aesthetic that is distinctly Brutalist.

Alexandra Road is a must-see for those interested in architecture and urban planning. When you visit it, don’t forget to pass by the Abbey Road studio, as the famous crosswalk is a few minutes away, as you can see on the map below.

Alexandra Road Estate: A Brutalist Marvel in London

Langtry Walk, London
NW8 0DU, United Kingdom

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And I’m here to share with you what I learned about it!

For some, the cherry blossom, or “sakura,” holds profound cultural significance, particularly in Japan. It symbolizes the fleeting beauty of life and the promise of renewal. This spectacle feels a bit different here and reminds us of peace and unity in Berlin, a gift from the Japanese people following Germany’s reunification.

Everything goes back to 1990, when a heartwarming crowdfunding campaign by TV Asahi resulted in the planting of thousands of cherry trees across the city, transforming former sections of the Berlin Wall’s path into vibrant avenues of blossoms. Their idea was to “clean” the atmosphere of those areas with the cherry trees, and, years later, we can thank them for the gorgeous days that Berlin had because of it.

But timing is crucial when planning your Cherry Blossom in Berlin adventure. The peak bloom typically occurs in late March and early April and lasts about ten days. This brief window of opportunity adds to the allure, making it an experience you won’t want to miss.

Look at local weather forecasts, photography Instagram accounts, and blossom trackers to maximize your chances, as the exact timing can vary yearly.

Where to Find the Best Cherry Blossoms in Berlin: A Local’s Guide

While cherry blossoms can be found throughout the city, certain locations offer particularly stunning displays. Here are some of my top recommendations:

Gärten der Welt (Gardens of the World): This sprawling park in Marzahn features a stunning Japanese garden with over 80 cherry trees. The annual Cherry Blossom Festival, held mid-April, offers a cultural immersion with traditional music, dance, and food. This location is perfect for those who want a guaranteed festival. Just be aware that it can get quite crowded.

Maybachufer and the Landwehr Canal: This central spot is along the Canal and offers easily accessible cherry blossom viewing. The urban setting and delicate blooms create a unique and picturesque scene. Start at Görlitzer Park, cross the Lohmühlen Bridge and then walk south towards Maybachufer. You will start spotting the cherry trees next to where the Berlin Wall used to be.

Bornholmer Straße north of the Mauerpark Area: This historic site, located near where the Berlin Wall fell, provides a meaningful backdrop for the cherry blossoms. The vibrant atmosphere of Mauerpark adds to the experience, making it a popular spot for locals and tourists. Around 215 trees grow there, so you will have a lot of pink.

Kirschblütenallee (Cherry Blossom Avenue): Stretching between Lichterfelde Süd and Teltow, this is Berlin’s longest cherry blossom avenue, a legacy of the Sakura Campaign. Over 1,000 trees create a mesmerizing pink tunnel, perfect for leisurely strolls and photography. Please note that the TV-Asahi Cherry Blossom Alley will be closed to visitors in 2025.

Wollankstraße S-Bahn: Located between Wedding and Pankow, these trees border the former death strip of the Berlin wall. This spot is a beautiful symbol of how beauty can come from dark places.

Glienicker Brücke: This historic bridge between Berlin and Potsdam, once a site of Cold War exchanges, is surrounded by charming cherry blossoms. The scenic views and historical significance make it a worthwhile destination.

Köllnischer Park: Located in Mitte/Kreuzberg, this park offers a central location to view cherry blossoms. Some of the cherry trees are next to where the bear pit used to be.

Zierkirschen am Oberbaum: There is a small bundle of cherry trees between the East Side Gallery and the Oberbaumbrücke, and they make for gorgeous pictures. It’s one of the last places I discovered for Cherry Blossoms in Berlin, and I always come back there to take some pictures.

Cherry Blossom Berlin: A Photographer’s Dream in Bloom

Cherry Blossom in Berlin is more than just a visual spectacle; it’s a deeply resonant experience and will leave you wanting more. This is why I go around Berlin every year with my camera, checking some spots. You’ll find peace and tranquility as you stroll through the streets and parks covered with delicate pink blossoms.

So, embrace the fleeting magic of spring and immerse yourself in the enchanting world of Berlin’s cherry blossoms.

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While the monument serves as an essential point of remembrance, it is vital to understand that Jewish Berlin represents a multifaceted narrative woven with vibrant culture, enduring resilience, and centuries-spanning memories.

Before the shadows of the Shoah fell across the city, a thriving Jewish community contributed immensely to Berlin’s intellectual, artistic, and commercial life. From the quiet gravestones of ancient cemeteries to the sites where pivotal and often tragic decisions were made, Berlin offers a chance to walk in the footsteps of those who shaped its past.

This journey isn’t just about confronting the darkness; it’s about uncovering the strength and spirit that persisted and continues to persist in many ways. In this article, I invite you to go beyond the familiar and delve deeper into the heart of Jewish Berlin, exploring some significant historical sites that reveal the depth and complexity of this vital part of the city’s identity.

Visiting these locations will help you better understand Berlin’s Jewish history. This exploration will allow me to gain a more in-depth knowledge of the city and its people.

Berlin’s Jewish Story: Beyond the Holocaust Memorial

To understand Jewish Berlin more, check out these five historical spots.

Rosenstraße Protest: Standing Up for Loved Ones

In the middle of Berlin, the Rosenstraße memorial honors an act of courage. In 1943, German women protested here to get their Jewish husbands back from being arrested. They were brave and stood their ground, and they succeeded in getting their loved ones released.

The memorial celebrates these women and their strength with a sculpture of a grieving woman. It reminds us that people can stand up for what’s right, even in dark times.

This was the first place that caught my attention among the ones I’m mentioning here. I started researching it and knew I had to tell its story.

The Peaceful Weißensee Jewish Cemetery

Tucked away in the Weißensee neighborhood, the Jewish Cemetery shows how long Jewish life has been a part of Berlin. This isn’t your average cemetery; it’s the biggest Jewish cemetery in Europe, with over 115,000 graves! Walking around, you get a real sense of the past and the people who made up Berlin’s Jewish community.

The beautiful cemetery has an art nouveau chapel and a peaceful atmosphere. It’s a constant reminder that Jewish life thrived in Berlin before. And it also survived the Nazi era, offering a somber yet important record of the community that existed before the Shoah.

Remembering the Lost: Levetzowstraße Deportation Memorial

Berlin carries the scars of the Holocaust, and the Levetzowstraße Deportation Memorial in Moabit is a powerful reminder. This is where thousands of Jewish people were taken away to concentration camps.

The memorial is simple, but it makes you feel the loss. It’s a place to think about the terrible things that happened and to remember the victims.

Platform 17 Memorial: Where People Were Taken Away

Platform 17 used to be a small train station and is another place that reminds us of the deportations that happened during the Second World War. Thousands of Jewish people were put on trains here and sent to their deaths.

The memorial has engraved steel sculptures and dates, showing the horror of what happened. It’s a place to remember the people who were taken from their homes and the pain it caused. The memorial includes a list of the trains, dates of deportations, and the number of people taken on each transport.

The Chilling House of the Wannsee Conference

The House of the Wannsee Conference sits by a gorgeous lake on the city’s outskirts but has a dark history. In 1942, this is where Nazi leaders met to plan the “Final Solution” – the murder of millions of Jews. Today, it’s a memorial and education center.

You can learn about the conference, who was there, and the horrendous results of their decisions. It’s a disturbing experience to see this peaceful place and know what happened inside.

Hidden Histories: Uncovering the Enduring Legacy of Jewish Life in Berlin

Visiting these five places helps you understand Jewish Berlin more deeply. You see the strength, culture, and history of the Jewish community. By going beyond the Holocaust Memorial, you get a better picture of Jewish life in Berlin.

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