It’s not just a bike ride; it’s a powerful demonstration of sustainable transportation and a celebration of pedal power. In the spring of 2025, I participated in it for the first time, and I loved the experience so much that I’m writing about it just a few hours after getting back home.

via GIPHY

I first heard about the Sternfahrt Berlin a few years ago, but I never managed to be in town or find the time to join the crowd in previous years. However, in 2025, my girlfriend and I took our bikes to Treptow so we could join the group from there, and 30 kilometers later, we were back home, thrilled to have taken part in all of this!

Each year, the Sternfahrt Berlin (a name that can be literally translated as “Star Ride Berlin,” as routes converge on the city center like points of a star) draws cyclists of all ages and abilities to the road. The 2025 event, for instance, saw police estimate around 13,500 participants, while organizers counted closer to 25,000 people taking part – a significant gathering of voices advocating for change. Based on what I saw and what it felt like to cycle in such a massive group, I think the organizers are closer to the right number here.

Under the rallying cry “Everyone on the bike!” (“Alle aufs Rad!“), this event underscores a growing desire for cities designed around people, not just motor vehicles.

Sternfahrt Berlin: Join Thousands Cycling for a Greener City

What makes the Sternfahrt Berlin truly unique is the rare opportunity to cycle on roads normally reserved exclusively for cars. For one incredible day, major arterial roads, as well as sections of the A100 city motorway and the A115, are closed to motorized traffic. This allows cyclists to experience Berlin from an entirely new perspective, gliding along wide, open asphalt that is usually humming with high-speed vehicles.

The feeling is more than liberating, a glimpse into what a more cycle-friendly urban future could feel like. Something that I see happening in Paris and that still missing in the political sphere in Berlin.

Participants gather in Berlin from various starting points, forming a network of approximately 20 routes that can total around 2,000 kilometers. Some dedicated groups undertake epic journeys, riding through the night from cities as far afield as Szczecin in Poland, Leipzig, or Dessau. Others embark on multi-day tours, with starting points near Osnabrück and Hanover.

The atmosphere is festive, with many people carrying Bluetooth speakers and listening to music together. There are also lots of bike bell rings, and cyclists, undeterred by the occasional drizzle, simply enjoy the collective energy and the car-free environment.

Car-Free Freedom: Why the Sternfahrt Berlin is a Must-See and a Must-Be Event

As you can imagine, the Sternfahrt Berlin is deeply rooted in activism. It serves as a large-scale demonstration, highlighting the constant need for improved cycling infrastructure and greater consideration for cyclists and pedestrians in urban planning. The ADFC uses the event to voice political demands to the Berlin Senate, and we were there to help them voice our concerns as cyclists.

The call is clear: Berlin needs more, not fewer, safe and well-maintained cycle paths.

While the Sternfahrt Berlin causes temporary disruption for drivers, it offers a profound experience for those who participate like we did. It felt like a vibrant, rolling festival of bikes that showcases the joy of cycling and champions a vision for a healthier, more sustainable urban environment.

If you’re in Berlin during the next Sternfahrt, joining one of the feeder routes or simply cheering from the sidelines is an unforgettable way to experience the city’s dynamic spirit of activism and community.

Keep an eye on the ADFC Berlin’s announcements for future dates if you’re planning a trip – it’s a Berlin event unlike any other.

The Unforgettable Sternfahrt Berlin 2025: Cycling an Automotive Artery

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I got in touch with Lomography a while back, after my article on my bike ride from Berlin to Copenhagen was published, to test some of their films. The first one I received was the LomoChrome Color ’92. I had used it before when it was first released, but it didn’t impress me.

Therefore, conducting one of them as a test was an interesting experiment, and I used my time in Split for this purpose. I’m really happy with the results, and I will get more of this film later, as the results were extremely positive for me.

The magic of old photographs, often taken on inexpensive drugstore film, holds a special kind of magic to some people, including me. They are treasured windows into moments past, infused with a distinct aesthetic quality that, perhaps surprisingly, is making a significant comeback, especially with Gen-Z.

Embracing the Unpredictable: What is LomoChrome Color ’92?

If you’re seeking a film stock that meticulously reproduces the world in its exact hues and tones, LomoChrome ’92 might send you on an unexpected detour. Lomography itself prepares users for “unique color negative emulsion gives each motif a touch of retro charm and classic analogue character.”

My initial scans, before any digital adjustments, were flatter and less punchy than I had anticipated. The grain is also quite chunky for an ISO 400 stock. Some of the shots I took with my Canon F-1 displayed an unappealing greenish cast in the shadow areas. However, this was easily correctable with a little digital post-processing in Lightroom.

In a nutshell, it’s a fun experience. This film isn’t for photographers chasing the finest grain or the most accurate color rendition, and I’m here for that. It’s for those eager to experiment with their 35mm camera and, dare I say, not take film photography too seriously.

After all, uncertainty is one of the most delightful aspects of the analog experience. Does it genuinely evoke the 1990s? Absolutely. The images, with their pronounced grain and slightly cooler tones, transported me straight back to my childhood and the Kodak camera that my family used to carry around Brazil. While far from technically perfect, LomoChrome ’92 is undeniably nostalgic, and that’s precisely its charm.

A Visit to the Historic Split Jewish Cemetery on Marjan Hill

The Split Jewish Cemetery, locally known as the Staro Židovsko Groblje Split, is situated on the eastern slope of Marjan Hill, offering spectacular panoramic views of the city of Split.

The land for the Split Jewish Cemetery was acquired in 1573 by Daniel Rodrigo. A refugee from the Portuguese Inquisition, Rodrigo settled in Split. He played a pivotal role in transforming the city into a key trading, tax collection, and quarantine port for the Republic of Venice. This development benefited both the local Jewish community and Split’s wider population. One significant outcome was the purchase of this land for a proper Jewish cemetery, a considerable improvement as, until then, Jewish burials were relegated to areas outside Christian cemeteries.

Nestled among pine trees on a gentle slope, the Split Jewish Cemetery showcases a centuries-long evolution of grave styles. The oldest tombstones are flat slabs, some shaped like sarcophagus roofs, bearing Hebrew inscriptions carved directly into the stone. In contrast, newer graves, more akin to Croatian graves from similar periods, feature letters set into the slab and display a mix of Hebrew, Croatian, and Italian inscriptions. This is something I have never seen before in other Jewish cemeteries, such as the Jewish Cemetery in Berlin-Weissensee.

The final burial at this sacred site took place in 1945. Following this, the city council closed all urban cemeteries and relocated them to Lovrinac. However, because the Split Jewish Cemetery was owned by the Jewish community itself, it was not moved but was closed to new burials. It now stands preserved as a significant historical monument.

A Deeper Look: The Legacy of Split’s Jewish Community and its cemetery

Split, Croatia’s second-largest city, boasts a rich history that stretches back to its origins as a Greek colony and subsequent Roman rule. Emperor Diocletian, who built his palace here in 293 AD, was among its early prominent figures. Jewish presence in Split dates back to the Roman Empire, with ancient Jewish graves within the Split Jewish Cemetery providing evidence of this long history. One notable tombstone mentions a Jew from Tiberias buried in Split during that era.

Throughout the Middle Ages, the Jewish community, primarily merchants, was active, maintaining a synagogue, a cemetery, and its own court. The 16th century saw an influx of Sephardic Jews fleeing Spain and Portugal. By the mid-17th century, 271 Jews resided in Split, making significant contributions to banking and international trade despite Venetian restrictions. The obligation to live in a ghetto was lifted in 1806 under brief French rule. The subsequent Austrian rule brought prosperity, with Jews excelling in various fields, including medicine, law, engineering, and commercial pursuits.

The cemetery on Marjan Hill, granted to the community in 1573, served for nearly 400 years. Tragically, the Nazis burned the cemetery’s archive in 1942, destroying the original documents. The graveyard holds approximately 700 tombstones, with the oldest reliably dated to 1717 (though some sources suggest 1861).

These markers, typically in the horizontal Sephardic style, are either flat slabs or sarcophagus-roof shapes, often with elaborate Hebrew calligraphy. Two 17th-century tombstones, brought from the islands of Hvar and Brač, are notable for their unique iconographic decorations; one depicts a dove holding an olive branch. At the same time, the other shows an angel ascending a ladder.

Despite some serious vandalism in 2014, the Split Jewish Cemetery remains a unique monument, recognized as one of the oldest in this part of Europe and listed in the state register of national heritage since 1966.

LomoChrome ’92’s Unique Take on the Split Jewish Cemetery

Shooting LomoChrome ’92 at the Split Jewish Cemetery was an intriguing intersection of experimental photography and profound history. The film’s characteristic tones and prominent grain lent a distinct, almost ethereal quality to the ancient tombstones and the tranquil, pine-shaded landscape that surrounded me. The slightly desaturated, flatter initial results from the film, before correction, mirror the quiet, reflective atmosphere of the cemetery.

While the greenish shadows in some frames required adjustment, the vibrant reddish tones, when they appeared, offered a surprising pop against the weathered stone and greenery. Ultimately, the “imperfections” of LomoChrome ’92 – its grain, its color shifts – didn’t detract from the solemn beauty of the Split Jewish Cemetery. Instead, they offered a uniquely nostalgic and somewhat melancholic interpretation, a visual echo of time’s passage, fitting for a place with such a long and storied past.

The Split Jewish Cemetery is more than just a collection of graves; it’s a chronicle of a resilient community. Photographing it with LomoChrome ’92, a film that celebrates the charm of imperfect and bygone eras, felt like an appropriate if the unconventional, way to engage with its enduring spirit. It was a reminder that beauty and memory can be found not just in perfect clarity but also in the evocative haze of nostalgia.

If you find yourself in Split with a love for history and perhaps an experimental film roll in your bag, a visit to the Split Jewish Cemetery offers a profoundly moving experience and a unique photographic opportunity.

LomoChrome ’92 at the Split Jewish Cemetery: Capturing History with a Nostalgic Twist

Split Old Jewish Cemetery (Marjan Hill)
1, Prilaz Vladimira Nazora Street

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This was my second time visiting Maastricht; my first time was in winter 2017, and I loved every minute. I saw some of my favorite bands play at the Samhain Festival this time, but I planned more than just heavy music. A cave tour was on my mind since I remember reading about it before, and it sounded like the right combination of history and darkness.

This subterranean expedition is an absolute must if you’re looking for an adventure beyond the typical tourist trail.

Our gateway to this underground realm was the Maastricht Underground Ticket shop, conveniently located near Fort St. Pieter. From the moment our guide began to speak, it was clear this wasn’t just any tour but an immersion into an obscure chapter of the city’s story.

The Grotten Noord, intricately carved from the soft marlstone by generations of “block breakers,” forms part of an incredible network of over 80 kilometers of underground passages. Today, about 8,000 of the original 20,000 tunnels remain, and each one tells a story from the past in its own way.

No Light, No Sound, Just Wonder: Experiencing the Maastricht Cave Tour

Stepping into the caves felt like entering another dimension. The temperature drops noticeably, and a profound silence surrounds you. There’s no phone signal to distract, no natural light to guide the way, and no ambient sound other than the guide’s voice and the soft shuffle of your fellow explorers’ feet.

This sensory deprivation sharpens your focus, driving your undivided attention toward the guide, who effortlessly navigates the complicated tunnels. In this blackness, illuminated only by the guide’s flashlight, the true magic of the Maastricht cave tour unfolds before you.

The air is cool and carries the earthy scent of damp limestone. It felt like the Paris Catacombs somehow, but without the bones. Our guide painted vivid pictures of the caves’ origins, explaining how villagers once diligently mined the marlstone, one block per day, for constructing buildings as far away as Aachen and Köln in Germany.

This painstaking work continued until the early 20th century when a nearby open-cast quarry rendered these traditional mining methods obsolete. The resourceful owner ingeniously decided to transform this sprawling network into a unique tourist attraction.

An Underground Museum of Art and History

The art decorating its walls honestly sets this Maastricht cave tour apart. In a way, the North Caves resemble a magical underground museum, showcasing unique charcoal drawings, intricate inscriptions, and surprisingly detailed paintings. Some artworks connect directly to Maastricht’s history, while others are whimsical additions from when it became a tourist spot.

Near the entrance, a striking painting of a priestess of the Roman goddess Vesta strongly reminds visitors of light’s vital importance in these pitch-black tunnels. Without artificial light, navigating this sprawling maze would be impossible. And our guide proved this to us when they shut off the lights for a brief moment that felt like a moment stuck in time.

Whispers of Wartime Secrets

The caves’ historical significance deepens as you learn about their role during World War II. They weren’t just a place for locals to shelter; these tunnels were key for smuggling operations, with routes stretching into Belgium, aiding the movement of supplies, refugees, and Allied pilots.

A particularly poignant part of our Maastricht cave tour was the visit to De Kluis, also known as The Vault in English. This specially constructed chamber within the caves held an incredible secret during the war: it was the hiding place for over 750 of the Netherlands’ most prized art masterpieces, including Rembrandt van Rijn’s monumental “The Night Watch.” The massive canvas was carefully detached from its frame and rolled into a large cylinder for safekeeping in this secure, hidden location.

Interestingly, De Kluis wasn’t entirely secret from the occupying German forces; soldiers reportedly slipped down to view the stored artwork.

Though De Kluis now stands empty – the cold, humid conditions far from ideal for preserving priceless paintings – standing in that small room, imagining it filled with such cultural treasures, was profoundly impressive. The ingenuity required to protect such heritage in conflict is remarkable.

From Mushroom Farms to Modern Exploration

Beyond warfare and art, the caves have seen many uses. Our guide shared anecdotes about former mushroom farms thriving in a consistent, cool, dark environment. These layers of history made the Maastricht cave tour a rich tapestry of human adaptation and strength.

The one-hour and forty-minute tour, which included De Kluis, flew by with engaging storytelling. The sheer novelty of the environment kept us captivated. It’s highly recommended that you book your tickets online in advance via exploremaastricht.nl, where you can also find tour times in English.

A Journey Deep into the Maastricht Cave Tour

My Maastricht cave tour was an extraordinary experience that offered a profound glimpse into the city’s hidden heart. It was a journey through geology, history, art, and human ingenuity. When I returned to daylight, Maastricht felt different, filled with the knowledge of the vast, silent world below. Something that made a lot of sense to me, together with the bands I was about to see play at the Samhain Festival.

If you find yourself in this beautiful Dutch city, don’t miss the chance to explore its depths. And once you’ve had your fill of subterranean wonders, the views from Fort Sint Pieter and the trails of Sint Pietersberg offer a perfect way to readjust to the world above.

Unearthing Secrets: My Unforgettable Maastricht Cave Tour Adventure

exploremaastricht.nl/en/tour/guided-tour-north-caves

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Traveling with film cameras isn’t just about the photographs I bring back but the analog process—a voyage of mindful interaction, patient uncertainty, and a deeper relationship to the moments I aim to preserve. Each of my film cameras offers a unique ritual and process, transforming the act of photography into a critical and joyful part of the adventure.

Adventure Through Analogue: A Traveler’s Guide to My Favorite Film Cameras

My Canon F-1 and the Photographer’s Craft

The Canon F-1 embodies the meticulous joy of the traditional analog process. This fully mechanical SLR demands engagement, so it is my go-to camera whenever I book a trip. I bring it with me wherever I go, and it captures everything I need it to.

Every step is a conscious decision, from selecting the aperture and shutter speed to manually focusing through its bright viewfinder. The satisfying heft of the camera, the solid click of its shutter, and the smooth travel of its focusing ring in each one of the lenses I have are the haptic rewards of working with such a beautifully engineered machine.

Using the F-1 while traveling to capture the intricate details of ancient architecture in Ostia or a summer day around Tempelhof is a deeply immersive experience. It forces me to slow down, observe the light, and craft an image.

I look forward to seeing these thoughtfully composed shots developed as they reflect a genuine collaboration between the photographer, camera, and moment.

Canon F-1

Reaching the Zen of Spontaneity with a Lomography LC-A+

The Lomography LC-A is a masterclass that joyfully embraces the analog process. Its motto, “Don’t Think, Just Shoot!” might seem counterintuitive to a mindful process. Still, it’s more about trusting your instincts and the camera’s quirky personality. The act of zone focusing—estimating distance and clicking the lever—becomes a quick, intuitive dance.

There’s a thrill in setting the aperture and then letting the camera’s unique Minitar 1 lens interpret the light and color of a bike ride to Denmark or a winter photowalk in Tallinn. The anticipation of seeing those signature vibrant colors, deep contrasts, and moody vignettes after development is a huge part of its charm. And I’m a big fan.

Each roll shot with the LC-A is a small lesson in letting go and finding beauty in the unexpected, a core tenet of the analog journey.

Lomography LC-A+

The Wide-Angle Ritual of the Reto Ultra Wide & Slim

For a truly expansive view and a wonderfully straightforward analog experience, the Reto Ultra Wide & Slim is a modern plastic marvel. I love carrying it around with me. With its fixed 22mm lens, this featherlight camera strips the process down to the essentials: composition and the satisfying click-and-wind.

There’s a distinct joy in its simplicity and the lo-fi results that it brings. The manual film advance wheel and the basic viewfinder force a more direct and physical interaction with the scene. Before each shot, I consciously consider how that super-wide perspective will transform the view, whether it’s a cityscape or a forest path.

The process is about anticipating that unique distortion and breadth, and the lightweight design means it’s always ready for that moment of wide-angle inspiration without any fuss. Every frame captured represents a carefully selected glimpse into the journey I took.

Reto Ultra Wide & Slim

Mamiya C330 Professional aims for Deliberate Artistry

The Mamiya C330 Professional offers the most meditative analog process in my collection. This medium-format TLR requires an entirely different pace.

The ritual of loading 120 films is more involved, demanding care and attention. Composing on its waist-level finder, seeing the world reversed and in a luminous square is an almost contemplative act. The bellows focus is precise and deliberate. Each click of its substantial shutter feels significant, knowing the large 6×6 negative captures incredible detail.

Traveling with the Mamiya camera, as I did for capturing infrared urban landscapes in Berlin, requires a strong commitment. However, the rich, detailed negatives it produces are a profound reward for the patient and demand a mindful process.

Mamiya C330

Crafting Panoramas and Wide Views with the Vivitar Panorama

Even simple film cameras bring their own procedural joys. The Vivitar Panorama, with its charmingly lo-fi approach to wide shots, is all about embracing limitations. There are no settings to fuss over; the process is straightforward – point, shoot, and wind. Done.

The delight comes from seeing how its fixed nature translates a grand landscape or a quirky street scene into its signature elongated frame. It’s a reminder that the analog process doesn’t need to be complex to be rewarding.

Knowing I’m capturing such a broad perspective with such a minimalist tool makes scouting for those dramatic wide angles even more engaging.

Vivitar Panorama

Sequential Storytelling with the Superheadz Golden Half-Camera

The Superheadz Golden Half Camera doubles the joy of the analog process by giving you twice as many frames per roll. This isn’t just economical; it changes the entire rhythm of shooting. Each click of the shutter, capturing a half-frame image, feels like collecting a precious snippet. That is why I always carry this camera around Berlin and beyond daily.

The process of advancing the film, knowing you have another shot immediately available on the same standard frame, encourages a different kind of observation. In diptychs, consciously look for pairs of images that tell a small story or create an interesting visual dialogue.

Holding a developed roll, packed with 72 little moments, feels like a treasure trove, each one a testament to the deliberate choices made during my travels.

Superheadz Golden Half-Camera

Embracing Imperfection with the Fanta Camera

Then there’s the pure, unadulterated fun of the Fanta Camera. This simple promotional tool strips the analog process to its essentials: load film, point, shoot, and hope for the best!

There’s a certain liberation in its utter lack of control. The joy here comes from shooting itself with zero pressure. Winding the little thumbwheel, hearing the plastic shutter click—it’s all part of its charm. The real magic happens when the film returns, revealing wonderfully unpredictable, light-leaked, and often surprisingly artistic images. They usually look like glimpses of a late-night party, and I’m here for that.

It’s a delightful reminder that the analog process can be playful and that surrendering control can lead to wonderful surprises.

Fanta Camera

The Enduring Magic of the Analog Process on the Road

Choosing film cameras for my travels involves selecting a richer, more engaged experience that may sometimes make things less practical. But I often mix digital with film since I still need some pictures to write the articles you see here. You know what I mean. However, the analog process tests the moment. It embeds the memories deeper, from loading the film to receiving the developed scans or prints.

These are the film cameras I have now, each offering me a different visual result. It’s all about the feel of the camera in my hands, the sound of the shutter, and the finite number of exposures that make each one count.

The joy of anticipation, the happy accidents, and the tangible artifact connect me to a time and place. This process makes me a more mindful traveler and deliberate photographer, ultimately bringing a more resounding joy to exploring the world around me. And that is all I look forward to with the pictures I take.

Film Cameras for Wanderlust: From Toy Snappers to Pro Rigs on the Road

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I first learned about this church in Mariendorf a couple of months ago on an Instagram story shared with me by a friend. He was curious if I had ever heard about the Church and Nazism in Germany. I didn’t know much about the topic, so I started researching. I stumbled upon this church in Berlin-Mariendorf that some people call the last “Nazi” Church.

The problem is that the Martin Luther Memorial in Mariendorf isn’t often open to the public. It is only open for a couple of hours one day a month for public visits outside of church services, and I had to sync my calendar and my life to its availability. At the end of April 2025, I finished work and walked from Sudkreuz towards Mariendorf, taking pictures and trying to kill time before the church doors opened.

Below is what I learned about the church from the pamphlets that they have there and some books I read about the topic since I couldn’t find much information about it online.

Unveiling the Berlin Nazi Church: A Journey into Mariendorf’s Past

From the outside, the Martin Luther Memorial Church, built between 1933 and 1935, might resemble other early 20th-century religious buildings with its imposing brick and a stone Bauhaus-influenced exterior. However, when you go inside, things go in a different direction, which might be uncomfortable for many people. Its interior and history set it apart as the last surviving church in Germany, which was overtly designed with National Socialist ideology embedded in its very fabric. This wasn’t a subtle infiltration; the connection to the Nazi regime was deliberate and prominent.

Plans for a new church in Mariendorf had been discussed since 1885 due to a growing congregation. The parish hall designed by Curt Steinberg (a Nazi Party member from 1933) was built in 1927. Construction of the main church commenced in September 1933, shortly after Adolf Hitler seized power, and it was inaugurated on December 22, 1935. Some even intended it to be named after Hitler himself.

Beyond the Bricks: Inside the Controversial Berlin Nazi Church

When you go through the church doors, you will first see the vestibule, designed as a hall of honor for World War I soldiers; there, you will start being confronted with this past. Look up, and an iron cross chandelier hangs overhead, illuminating the busts of the Protestant reformer Martin Luther and Field Marshal Paul von Hindenburg, who appointed Hitler as German Chancellor. Church officials believe a bust of Adolf Hitler once completed this triumvirate, underscoring the fusion of religious, military, and political figures. The hymn “A Mighty Fortress Is Our God” encircles this space, written in German, and is a traditional Christian anthem co-opted into a nationalistic narrative.

The main sanctuary, capable of seating 800 worshippers, further reveals the extent of Nazi influence. There is a massive stone archway leading to the chancel, which features friezes on its square panels – approximately 800 symbolic terracottas.

Here, Christian symbols like crosses are juxtaposed with images of workers, soldiers, and eagles. Blank panels now exist where swastikas were once proudly displayed; these were removed after the war due to their illegality in modern Germany.

This blending of Christian and National Socialist imagery was a hallmark of the “German Christians,” a Nazi-affiliated movement that sought a perverse synthesis of Christianity and Hitler’s ideology, promoting an “Aryan Jesus” and even aiming to replace the Bible with “Mein Kampf.”

Besides the stone archway, the altar presents a depiction of Jesus that diverges sharply from traditional portrayals of suffering. Instead, he appears powerful, almost like a bodybuilder – a “German hero” with a defiantly raised chin.

As historian Ilse Klein, who works at the church, has noted, “Everything is about power, strength and victory. They are clearly fascist symbols.” The baptismal font is equally jarring, featuring carvings intended to depict the “German family,” complete with a mother, child, and father in the uniform of an SA stormtrooper. The pulpit once displayed figures of a soldier, an SA man, and a Hitler Youth alongside citizens and a pastor.

Even the grand Walcker organ, with its façade pipes painted with folkloric motifs, carries a tainted legacy. Before its installation in the church, it was used at the notorious 1935 Nazi Party Rally in Nuremberg, the very rally where the antisemitic Nuremberg Laws were promulgated.

The church’s narrative, however, is not uniform… Amidst the pervasive National Socialist influence, there were acts of courage. Pastor Max Kurzreiter, who served at the Martin Luther Memorial Church, secretly helped individuals persecuted by the Nazis.

In a defiant act, he married the writer Jochen Klepper and his Jewish wife, Johanna, in the church in 1938, a union deemed illegal at the time. Tragically, Klepper, his wife, and daughter chose suicide in 1942 to escape deportation after Adolf Eichmann refused their visa. Their story has been documented and shared within the church, reminding them that there are often deeper layers to the predominant narrative.

Beyond the Bricks: Inside the Controversial Berlin Nazi Church

After the war, the church faced the challenge of its heritage. The swastikas were removed, and in 1970, new stained-glass windows by Hans Gottfried von Stockhausen, depicting the Holy Communion liturgy, replaced original windows by Werner Göritz that were destroyed in a 1943 bombing raid.

The congregation itself now views the building as a crucial memorial and a place of reconciliation. To critically engage with its past, in 1989, the parish purchased “Auschwitz” and “Oratio,” powerful artworks by Polish artist Paweł Warchol. Since 1992, the congregation has been a member of the Coventry Cross of Nails Community, an international group dedicated to forgiveness and renewal.

For many years, the church served its congregation. Still, recently, structural issues, particularly with the tower’s stability, led to its closure for regular services. The parish managed to get significant funding for essential restoration work. They hoped to secure a historical designation, which would open avenues for financing for foundations dedicated to preserving historical landmarks. And they managed to reach their goals.

The intent is not to return it to regular worship but to transform it into a space for special ceremonies, concerts, and exhibitions – a place to remember and to educate, ensuring that the lessons from this “Berlin Nazi Church” are never forgotten.

An exhibition exploring the story of Jochen and Johanna Klepper, which began in 2022, further solidifies its role as a site for historical and social reflection.

Echoes of the Third Reich: Visiting Berlin’s Infamous “Nazi Church”

Visiting the Martin Luther Memorial Church in Mariendorf is a sobering experience and it felt surreal to me in many moments. It serves as a powerful reminder of how deeply nationalistic and hateful ideologies can infiltrate even sacred spaces.

It’s a difficult place to be, but it’s an important destination for those seeking to understand the full spectrum of Berlin’s, and indeed Germany’s, 20th-century history, prompting visitors to reflect on the dangers of political co-option and the enduring need for vigilance against extremism.

The Berlin Nazi Church: Confronting a Difficult History in Mariendorf

Martin Luther Memorial Church
Riegerzeile 1 – 12105 Berlin

mariendorf-evangelisch.de/kirchen/ml-gedaechtniskirche

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This stunning building is more than just a place of worship; it is an architectural marvel and a rare example of Expressionist design. Since I travel with a focus on architecture, I had to find my y thereway. If you’re looking for a truly unique experience in the Danish capital, a visit to Grundtvig’s Church is a must.

Exploring Grundtvig’s Church: Copenhagen’s Awe-Inspiring Architectural Icon

P.V. Jensen-Klint undertook an ambitious journey to create a design for Grundtvig’s Church that was both modern and deeply rooted in Danish tradition. He meticulously studied Danish village churches, particularly those on the island of Zealand, with their characteristic stepped gables.

These traditional building techniques, materials, and decorative elements became foundational to his design. He merged the clean, geometric forms of Brick Expressionism with the soaring verticality of Gothic architecture. The result of this visual experiment is a structure often referred to in modern terms as a Gothic cathedral, yet it defies simple categorization.

The construction of Grundtvig’s Church began after World War I, with the foundation stone laid on Grundtvig’s birthday, September 8, 1921. The main building phase lasted until 1926, with the tower section completed first, leading to an initial inauguration of the “Tower Church” in 1927.

Sadly, P.V. Jensen-Klint passed away in 1930 before the entire structure was finished. The immense task was entrusted to his son, Kaare Klint, a renowned architect and designer, who saw the project through to its completion in 1940.

The most visually interesting feature of Grundtvig’s Church is undoubtedly its west facade. From the pictures I took during my visit, you can see that it looks like the exterior of a church organ. It rises dramatically, guiding the eye skyward. This imposing facade incorporates the 49-meter-tall bell tower. The tower’s lower half is constructed from simple brickwork that makes the top shine even more. At the same time, the upper reaches present a remarkable, rippling surface that seems almost fluid despite its solid construction.

The sheer scale is impressive, but what truly sets Grundtvig’s Church apart is its construction material: approximately six million pale yellow bricks. This traditional Danish building material was used almost exclusively, giving the church a monolithic appearance. The choice of yellow brick bathes the structure in a soft glow, particularly when touched by sunlight, and was intended to represent ascension, literally and spiritually. The church’s pale color is a bit unusual, and it makes the entire building look like an ice palace.

An Interior of Calm Grandeur

Stepping inside Grundtvig’s Church is an experience of serene monumentality. The nave was designed with generous dimensions, and there weren’t many people there during my visit, so it was clear to me that this church was put together with an atmosphere of profound calm and contentment in mind. Despite its immense size, it is capable of holding a congregation similar in number to Copenhagen Cathedral.

This tranquility is largely due to the consistent use of the same brickwork seen on the exterior, forming the sole decoration. The clean lines and lack of ornate embellishments allow the architectural forms and the quality of light to speak for themselves. In completing the interior, Kaare Klint also designed the distinctive chairs for Grundtvig’s Church – elegant, simple chairs made of beech wood with wickerwork seats, which have since become Danish furniture design classics.

Every time I visit a historic church, I watch for the organs they might have. And the Grundtvig’s Church has something important to show since the church houses two notable organs. The first organ I saw was the one located on the north side of the nave. It was built in 1940 by Marcussen & Søn, with its facade designed by Kaare Klint.

On the western end of the nave, a much larger Marcussen instrument was added in 1965, and its facade was designed by Kaare Klint’s son, Esben Klint. This one is a more impressive organ, and it boasts 55 stops. Also, I learned about this later; its longest pipe, at 11 meters, is the longest in Scandinavia, weighing 425 kg.

The vision for Grundtvig’s Church extended beyond the church building itself. The architectural scheme included constructing a series of buildings flanking the church, collectively known as “På Bjerget” (On the Hill). These structures house the parish hall and apartments and were built between 1924 and 1926.

Built from the same colored brick, these architects created a symmetrical and harmonious context, enhancing the church’s visual impact with a collection of buildings that surround it in a gorgeous way. I cycled around the area for a few moments before stopping by the church, and I loved how the entire neighborhood looked.

Why Grundtvig’s Church in Copenhagen Demands a Visit

Even though it’s a little outside the city center, Grundtvig’s Church in the Bispebjerg district is easily accessible by public transport, so arriving there is not a problem. Or you can do what I did and cycle from the city center!  

Its unique architecture, the story of its creation, and the peaceful atmosphere make it a rewarding destination for anyone interested in architecture and history or simply looking to see something outside of the main tourist spots in Copenhagen. If this is you, don’t forget to also check out what I wrote about the Copenhill and the Second World War graffiti!

The interplay of light on the millions of pale bricks, the soaring interior, and the sheer originality of its design ensure that Grundtvig’s Church will be a memorable highlight of any Copenhagen visit. It’s more than just a building; it’s an experience that resonates long after you’ve left. You shouldn’t miss it!

Discover Grundtvig’s Church: A Unique Expressionist Gem in Copenhagen

På Bjerget 14B, 2400
Copenhagen, Denmark

visitcopenhagen.com/grundtvigs-church

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I was in Split for a few days early in May 2025, and I loved getting lost among the historic streets in the old town. At one of these moments, I stumbled upon a special place. I found it strange enough to add to my list of modern shops with ancient ruins, like the McDonalds I visited in Rome and the Zara in Athens.

Below, you can read what I learned about this unusual supermarket in Split.

Split’s Most Surprising Stop: The Unesco Supermarket in Diocletian’s Palace

Lodged within Split’s historic core on the Mala Papalićeva Palača ground floor, this isn’t your average supermarket. The building is a treasure, a Gothic structure believed to have originated in the 13th century.

The Mala Papalićeva Palača is part of a larger historical narrative. This palace is located within the boundaries of Diocletian’s Palace, a historic complex that forms the very heart of Split. This sprawling 4th-century palace, built by the Roman emperor Diocletian as his retirement residence, is a remarkably preserved marvel of ancient architecture.

The entire historic center of Split, including Diocletian’s Palace, was rightfully inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1979, recognizing its outstanding universal value.

So, how did a modern supermarket chain set up shop in such a historically significant location? When the Austrian grocery chain Billa (which has since been acquired by SPAR) determined the 2,500-square-foot ground floor of the Mala Papalićeva Palača for a new store in 2014, it raised more than a few eyebrows among Split’s residents. At least, that is what I was told when I asked a tour guide about it.

Many locals had mixed feelings about the arrival of a supermarket in such a beloved historical site. They expressed concerns regarding the suitability of a commercial grocery store operating within the ancient walls. And I can completely understand these concerns.

City officials also voiced worries about the practical implications, such as the logistics of daily deliveries rumbling through historic alleyways and the potential need for new infrastructure in a building that had previously undergone careful conservation, partly funded by the Ministry of Culture. The contrast between modern signage and refrigerator units against Gothic pillars is striking.

Despite the initial surprise and ongoing discussions, this Unesco-protected Supermarket in Split has become a peculiar fixture in the city. For travelers like me, it offers a moment of surreal juxtaposition – one minute, you’re admiring ancient Roman stonework and the next, you’re deciding which brand of beer to buy, all under the same historical watch.

While the city’s magnificent architecture and rich heritage are the primary draws for visitors, stumbling upon this supermarket provides a memorable, if somewhat unusual, travel anecdote. It underlines how Split is not merely an open-air museum but a living, breathing city where daily life intermingles directly with its ancient past.

It’s important to clarify: the supermarket wasn’t directly awarded UNESCO protection. Instead, it benefits from this status by its location within a protected historic monument. This unique situation means you are shopping within a slice of history globally recognized for its cultural importance, leading to the colloquial title of the Unesco-protected Supermarket in Split.

Next time you wander the incredible passageways of Diocletian’s Palace, keep an eye out for a SPAR sign on the street. Popping into a Unesco Supermarket in Split offers more than just a chance to grab a snack; it’s an opportunity to witness a unique crossroad of antiquity and modernity, where the echoes of nobility meet the everyday needs of the 21st century.

It’s a small yet fascinating example of how historic cities continue to adapt and evolve, sometimes in the most unexpected ways. Follow the map below to find your way into this unusual piece of Split.

Unesco Supermarket Split: Where Ancient Walls Meet Aisles of Groceries

Šubićeva 5 7, 21000
Split, Croatia

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Today, some of these structures still stand as stark reminders of a dark chapter, offering a chilling glance into the ambitions and ideologies of the Third Reich. If you want to know about Nazi architecture in Berlin, you have come to the right place.

Berlin’s Dark Legacy: Exploring What Remains of Nazi Architecture Today

When I moved to Berlin in 2012, I wasn’t expecting to see so many bullet holes left over from the Second World War. But they are all around town; you just have to know where to look, and you will see them. I believe the same thing happened with Nazi Architecture in Berlin. Once you know the patterns, the structures and the history behind them, you will spot them all around town.

Below, you will learn a little about some of them, including the most important ones still standing today.

The Luftwaffe Building on Wilhelmstrasse: A Monument to Air Power

Our journey begins with the former Luftwaffe Ministry, also known at the time as the Reichsluftfahrtministerium. This colossal structure once symbolized the might of the Nazi air force. With its imposing facade and expansive scale, this building reflects the regime’s obsession with power and control.

The Ministry was responsible for developing and producing all aircraft designed and built in Germany during the Third Reich. It oversaw all aspects related to both military and civilian aircraft. Its top priority was military aviation, particularly for the Luftwaffe.

Its sheer size was intended to intimidate and impress, a memorial to the Nazis’ desire to project an image of invincibility that still stands on Wilhelmstrasse. Today, it houses the German Finance Ministry, the Bundesministerium der Finanzen in German.

The 1936 Berlin Olympics: A Stage for Nazi Propaganda

The 1936 Berlin Olympics, while celebrated as a sporting event, served as a powerful tool for Nazi propaganda.

The games were designed to showcase a new Germany, aiming to surpass the Los Angeles Games of 1932. To achieve this, Berlin built a new stadium for track and field events, which has a capacity of 100,000 seats and is still in use today. Additionally, the city constructed six new gymnasiums and several other smaller arenas and sports facilities.

The meticulously planned event showcased the regime’s supposed efficiency and modernity, masking its sinister intentions. The Olympic Stadium itself, with its monumental architecture, became a symbol of Nazi power.

Albert Speer Street Lights in Berlin

Check out the Albert Speer street lights to discover some of Berlin’s lesser-known design pieces. As we all know, Albert Speer was a prominent architect in Nazi Germany and oversaw much of Berlin’s redevelopment plan.

Starting at Tiergarten S-Bahn station, you’ll notice a shift in the streetlight design as you walk toward Charlottenburger Tor. These sleek lights line Straße des 17. Juni, Bismarckstrasse, and Kaiserdamm, ending at Theodor-Heuss Platz.

Originally named Adolf-Hitler-Platz, the square was central to Speer’s vision for the city. Today, while the square has a different name, the street lights remain.

The Germania Project and the Schwerbelastungskorper

The “Germania” project, Hitler’s vision for a transformed Berlin, was to create a monumental city reflecting his version of the glory of the Third Reich. While much of the project remained unrealized, its remnants can still be seen in the city’s architecture.

There is a place between Kreuzberg and Schöneberg with a peculiar German name. The Schwerbelastungskorper, or the heavy load-bearing body, was placed there to test the ground for the planned Triumphal Arch. Today is a mournful reminder of this grandiose but ultimately failed vision.

Weirdly, if you have seen the TV series The Man in the High Castle on Amazon Prime, you have seen a few samples of what this city would look like.

A Place of Mobilization in the shape of the Messe Berlin

Messe Berlin, a sprawling exhibition center, played a crucial role in the Nazi war machine. It served as a hub for mobilization and propaganda, hosting rallies and exhibitions that promoted the regime’s ideology.

The immense scale of the complex serves as a reminder of the Nazi regime’s extraordinary capacity to meticulously organize and exert control over vast populations. Its layout and numerous facilities reflect the efficiency of its operations and illustrate the chilling extent to which it could manage resources, personnel, and the logistics of an entire bureaucratic system dedicated to its goals.

Interestingly, today, one of the most unusual buildings in Berlin stands next to Messe Berlin, which is called ICC Berlin. Based on the pictures, I often go there for ITB, the World’s Leading Travel Trade Show.

Tempelhof Airport as a Gateway to Power

Tempelhof Airport, significantly expanded during the Nazi era, was intended to be a gateway to the new “Germania.” Its massive terminal building, sweeping curves and monumental proportions reflect the regime’s ambition to create a world-class capital.

The airport’s design also incorporated military features, highlighting the Nazis’ focus on militarization. And I love that today, it’s a public park close to one of the most diverse neighborhoods in Berlin: Neukölln.

The ensemble of buildings at Fehrbelliner Platz

Fehrbelliner Platz was largely undeveloped until the 1920s and was planned as a large horseshoe-shaped town square.

Architect Helmut Remmelmann designed buildings in a neoclassical style. Unlike other buildings constructed in the same period on the square, this one features conventional brickwork and a plastered façade. The circular courtyard, lined with columns, takes inspiration from the police headquarters in Copenhagen, which was built between 1919 and 1924.

Today, the original Nazi-era buildings contrast strongly with the modernist-looking U-Bahn station. Every time I pass the area, I have to take pictures.

Interestingly, the structure that used to be the German Labour Front building was the headquarters of the British occupying forces Lancaster House until 1953.

Bunkers and Flak Towers: Defending the Third Reich

The construction of bunkers and Flak towers across Berlin reveals the Nazis’ obsession with defense and security. These massive concrete structures, designed to withstand air raids, served as shelters and defensive platforms.

Many of these old bunkers are still standing in Berlin today—so many that a few years ago, I decided to hunt some down and write a full article about them.

The Legacy of Nazi Architecture

The architectural legacy of the Nazi era in Berlin is complex and multifaceted. While often imposing and intimidating, these structures serve as important historical documents, offering valuable insights into the regime’s ideology and ambitions. By exploring these sites, we can gain a deeper understanding of this dark chapter in history and ensure that its lessons are not forgotten.

By visiting these sites, tourists and locals alike can learn more about the history of Berlin, the impact of the Nazi regime and the many mistakes made at the time.

Walking Through History: Tracing Nazi Architecture in Modern Berlin

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We passed by bike a few times on our way to Adlershof, and we always wondered what it would look like from inside the fences. We knew about the abandoned Flugplatz Johannisthal for years and even tried to find our way a few years ago. Still, we only made it in early January 2021.

It was with some surprise that we found out how much this place looked like a destroyed wasteland, even though there was a police station just across from the main building.

Before we share some of the pictures we took of Flugplatz Johannisthal as a lost place, we have to tell you some of the histories of this place. Maybe you will understand better why we believe it’s so sad to see it as the wasteland it is today.

How the Flugplatz Johannisthal started

Located between Johannisthal and Adlershof, in what used to be the outskirts of Berlin, the airfield opened as Motorflugplatz Johannisthal-Adlershof. The name connected with the fact that this was the place for powered flights.

This happened because the German Army at the time didn’t want to see hangars being built at the parade grounds on Tempelhof. Before the airport was built, the area was used as a training field for the German Army. Only in the 1920s did construction start for the airport, and it became Flughafen Berlin-Tempelhof.

Berlin had some history with flights since Otto Lilienthal, a German aviation pioneer, undertook his first gliding experiments on an artificial hill called Fliegeberg.

This place is called Lilienthal Park and can be visited in Lichterfelde.

Returning to Flugplatz Johannisthal, the airfield opened in September 1909 and was the second commercial airfield in Germany. Only the August-Euler airfield in Darmstadt since it opened a year before, in October 1908.

Before the First World War, the Flugplatz Johannisthal had two large airship hangars by Zeppelin and Parseval. Also, a grandstand fitted more than two thousand visitors who used to flock to the area to see the airplanes landing.

This was so popular that the airfield became an international attraction, with people visiting Berlin to watch the planes fly. This tourism helped finance it even though many people jumped the surrounding fences.

Many of the first aviation events in Germany happened at Flugplatz Johannisthal. The first cross-country flight over Germany ended on the airfield when Hubert Latham landed on September 27, 1909. The first Deutschlandflug occurred there as well.

Also, the worst accident in airship travel at the time happened at Flugplatz Johannisthal in October 1913 when a Zeppelin caught fire and crashed, killing 28 people.

The first continuous flight lasting more than 24 hours also occurred there with Reinhold Böhm in July 1914. Another first was Amelie Beese, who trained there and became the first German woman to earn a pilot’s license.

When the First World War started, the airfield became a military operation. The entire area was used as an industrial park for surveillance and combat aircraft in different plants. The production at Flugplatz Johannisthal was so massive that over 25% of the 48,000 planes produced for the war came from there.

After the war’s end, Flugplatz Johannisthal was used for airmail between Berlin and Weimar, the location of the National Assembly in the Weimar Republic. Passenger service followed later, and German President Friedrich Ebert seemed one of the first guests.

Everything changed for Flugplatz Johannisthal in 1923 when Tempelhof opened as an airport. After that, it was only used as a military airfield. This included some secret tests for the rearmament of Germany during the Nazi era.

After the Second World War, the airport was operated by the Soviet Air Force and completely closed to the outside public. They moved to Berlin-Schönefeld Airport in 1952, and Flugplatz Johannisthal was later used by the East German National People’s Army as a military training ground.

During those years, the Academy of Sciences of the GDR moved to the south side of the airfield. It employed more than five thousand researchers, scientists, and technicians. Today, a part of the area is known as the Aerodynamic Park. It is a part of the Humboldt University campus in Berlin.

Also, from 1950 to 1991, VEB Kühlautomat Berlin used the area to make refrigerators and air compressors, which is a little unusual for us.

flugplatz johannisthal lost place

The Flugplatz Johannisthal was closed in 1995, and the area was split into three large zones. The abandoned site is on the north side of the airfield with the large hangar and the wasteland.

The landing strips became the Landscape Park Johannisthal/Adlershof, a conservation area and a park with some amenities. You can see the Aerodynamic Park and some new buildings in the south.

This exciting place to explore is still abandoned in the middle of Berlin. But be careful since many buildings have seen better days and a police station across the street.

My last visit to Flugplatz Johannisthal in April 2025

In late April 2025, I went back to Flugplatz Johannisthal to take some pictures, and I was surprised by what I saw there. I don’t pass by the area often, and the last time I was around the park and the abandoned buildings was several months ago. Because of that, I was surprised to see that most of the abandoned buildings and structures around Flugplatz Johannisthal are completely gone.

Only a few of the buildings were still in place during my last visit, and they won’t last long. There are machines around the lot, recycling containers and some cut steel. I’m curious to learn what will happen with the lot and the entire area since I researched and couldn’t find anything on the topic. There were no signs or information around the fenced area, so I will keep my eye open for some news.

If you plan on going to Flugplatz Johannisthal shortly, you are already too late. Almost all the images you saw in this article are now part of history.

Flugplatz Johannisthal as a Lost Place: Exploring Germany’s first commercial airfield

Arthur-Müller-Straße 24, 12487
Berlin

If you are interested in what we wrote about other abandoned airports and airfields around Berlin, you will love to read about the Flugplatz Oranienburg, Flugplatz Rangsdorf, and Flugplatz Brand.

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From April 11 to May 25, 2025, this installation invites you to explore light, sound, and the stories hidden in a former four-star hotel that will soon be torn down. I was there during the Easter holiday and am here to share my experience! By the end, I know you’ll want to go there too.

Organized by the imaginative minds behind acclaimed Berlin events like The Dark Rooms Vertical, Himmel unter Berlin, and the LOST Art Festival, Clara and Sven Sauer have once again crafted an experience designed to pull visitors away from the every day and deeply engage them with art. Their collective has shaped Berlin’s cultural landscape for several years, consistently finding unconventional spaces to challenge perceptions.

The Dark Rooms Hotel continues this tradition, taking over a building steeped in its silent history.

Dark Rooms Hotel Berlin: Explore Light, Sound, and Shadow in a Lost Place

Imagine a place that once pulsed with life—a West Berlin hotel where countless people checked in and out, carrying their hopes, dreams, joys, and sorrows.

Conversations echoed in the lobby, celebrations unfolded in its rooms, and quiet moments of reflection happened behind closed doors. This building served as a container for human experience. Before it stood empty and orphaned, it retains the invisible imprint of those past lives. Today, these rooms still carry these invisible stories within them.

Before the wrecking ball swings and the structure vanishes forever, The Dark Rooms Hotel grants visitors one last chance to walk its floors. But this isn’t a typical urban exploration; it’s a curated artistic intervention.

Across ten levels inside this nine-story building, 15 international artists have installed captivating light and sound works. Notable contributors include Rabih Mroué, Jin Lee, Markus Graf, Wiebke Maria Wachmann, and Yasuhiro Chida. Many pieces are being presented to the public for the first time in Berlin within the unique context of the Dark Rooms Hotel.

The Immersive Sensory Journey of the Dark Rooms Hotel in Berlin

True to the Dark Rooms concept, the exhibition happens mainly in darkness. This deliberate choice serves an effective purpose. By minimizing visual input, the experience drives visitors to rely more heavily on their other senses. This concept is made clear in the short introduction made when I entered. The curated soundscapes resonate differently in the near-blackness.

The darkness heightens awareness, making the textures more exciting and the enveloping sounds more evident. It becomes an environment where introspection and heightened perception thrive.

The artworks within the Dark Rooms Hotel are designed to do more than just visually or aurally stimulate. These installations aim to touch, provoke thought, and even unsettle, bringing submerged themes to the surface through their lights, shadows, and sounds. Sometimes, they even feel like a trip into outer space, as seen in some of the pictures I selected here.

This abandoned hotel, filled with memories, amplifies the impact of these explorations on the overlooked corners of human experience. Experiencing these works within the atmospheric shell of the Dark Rooms Hotel provides a context that a traditional gallery setting simply cannot replicate. And I loved every minute of it.

Ephemeral Art: Why You Must Visit Berlin’s Dark Rooms Hotel Before It Disappears

What makes the Dark Rooms Hotel particularly thrilling is its ephemeral nature. The exhibition window is tight – just a little over a month, with its doors closing to the public on May 25, 2025. Shortly after the final visitor departs, the building itself will face demolition, and there is nothing that we can do about it.

For those seeking unique cultural experiences and art lovers drawn to unconventional presentations, The Dark Rooms Hotel offers an exceptional journey into the heart of Berlin’s creative spirit. It’s a chance to engage your senses, contemplate hidden stories, and explore a fascinating space during its final moments.

From April 11 to May 25, 2025, this installation invites you to explore light and sound in a forgotten location in Berlin. Don’t miss the opportunity to enter the shadows before they and the hotel disappear.

Step Inside the Shadows of The Dark Rooms Hotel

www.thedarkrooms.de

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