In the sprawling district of Weissensee, a quiet giant rests, where time seems to slow, and the whispers of history echo through the trees. This is the Jewish Cemetery in Berlin-Weissensee, a 42-acre expanse that powerfully reminds the Jewish community of its journey through triumph and tragedy.
Europe’s largest active Jewish cemetery reflects a community withstood centuries of change. While other Jewish cemeteries in Europe may have a larger number of graves, like the Kozma Street Jewish Cemetery in Budapest or the Okopowa Street Jewish Cemetery in Warsaw, the Weissensee cemetery’s ongoing activity and meticulously kept records make it a unique and vital historical resource.
I have been documenting many cemeteries around Berlin in the last few years. This nameless project started during the COVID-19 pandemic. I started going for walks in the most peaceful place I could imagine, which happened to be a cemetery. I often visited the cemeteries around Sudstern and, from that, started going to different ones around the city.
For a while, I have wanted to visit a non-Christian cemetery. Still, due to the opening times, it was always a bit tricky to see any of the Jewish cemeteries in Berlin. In late January 2025, after a dentist appointment, I had some time to explore Weissensee. I decided to visit the Jewish Cemetery in Berlin-Weissensee. The pictures you’ll see here are from that first visit.
Whispers of History: Uncovering the Stories of Berlin’s Jewish Cemetery
Established in 1880, the cemetery was designed by architect Hugo Licht to accommodate Berlin’s growing Jewish population, which had reached around 65,000. The previous cemetery on Schönhauser Allee was full, and the community needed a new space to bury their dead. This wasn’t just about providing a burial ground; it was about creating a place that reflected the community’s rising status and aspirations.
The gravestones, inscribed in German and Hebrew, tell stories of prominent figures who shaped Berlin’s cultural and economic landscape. Here lie the remains of Berthold Kempinski, founder of the famous hotel chain, and Hermann Tietz and Adolf Jandorf, the men behind renowned department stores. These individuals represent a generation of Jewish people aspiring for integration and recognition in German society. They exemplify the hopes and dreams of a community seeking to balance their Jewish identity with their place in the broader German culture.
The cemetery also bears witness to the darkest chapter in Jewish history. A field of honor, established in 1927, commemorates the Jewish soldiers who fought and died for Germany in World War I, a heartbreaking reminder of their patriotism and ultimate sacrifice. At its center stands a memorial designed by architect Alexander Beer, who himself would later perish in a concentration camp. This section of the cemetery highlights the complex relationship between the Jewish community and Germany, a relationship marked by both belonging and persecution.
During the Holocaust, the cemetery became a refuge for some. Martin Riesenburger, who would later become a rabbi in East Berlin, hid within the cemetery walls with his wife, continuing to bury the dead and even conducting religious services. His story is about incredible courage and resilience in the face of unimaginable horror.
The cemetery also served as a hiding place for others, though not all were as fortunate as Riesenburger. Some hiding spots were discovered by the Gestapo, leading to tragic consequences.
The Enduring Legacy of the Jewish Cemetery in Berlin-Weissensee
A memorial at the cemetery’s entrance honors the countless Holocaust victims who have no graves. This serves as a reminder of the numerous lives lost and provides a sacred space for remembrance and mourning, honoring their memories with deep empathy and respect. Urns containing ashes from concentration camps like Auschwitz have been interred here, connecting this space to the broader narrative of the Holocaust.
For me, one of the most shocking things I saw while I walked around the cemetery was the number of gravestones that were etched with concentration camp names. I don’t know why, but I didn’t consider this before I headed to the Jewish Cemetery in Berlin-Weissensee. Still, it was something that made itself clear to me quickly.
Another interesting aspect was the fact that there were small rocks above many tombstones. Since I didn’t know what this meant, I had to do some research. That is how I found out that the Jewish tradition of leaving stones or pebbles on a grave is ancient, and its origins are unclear. Placing stones on a grave is more of a custom or tradition than a strict commandment, and it has garnered various interpretations over time. According to the Talmud, after a person dies, their soul lingers in the grave where they were buried. Some people find comfort in placing stones on the grave, as it symbolizes keeping the soul in this world.
While the Holocaust casts a long shadow over the cemetery, it is also a place where life continues. Amidst the somber memorials, there are also markers of ordinary lives, reminders that life goes on even in the face of tragedy.
The Jewish Cemetery in Berlin-Weissensee is more than just a burial ground; it’s a living history book where past stories intersect with the present. This place serves as a profound space for reflection and remembrance, honoring the enduring spirit of the Jewish community in Berlin.
For anyone who values history, culture, and the resilience of the human spirit, it is an essential and moving experience that resonates deeply.
A Journey Through Time: The Jewish Cemetery in Berlin-Weissensee
Herbert-Baum-Straße 45
13088 Berlin
