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A Different Hue: Exploring the Split Jewish Cemetery Through LomoChrome ’92

Tapping right into this wave of 1990s nostalgia, the great people at Lomography recently unveiled its LomoChrome Color ’92 film stock. This ISO 400 color negative film, available in 35mm, 120, and 110 formats, is engineered to echo the look and feel of that ubiquitous film of yesteryear. On a recent trip to Croatia, I decided to pair this unique film with a visit to a site steeped in history: the Jewish Cemetery in Split.

I got in touch with Lomography a while back, after my article on my bike ride from Berlin to Copenhagen was published, to test some of their films. The first one I received was the LomoChrome Color ’92. I had used it before when it was first released, but it didn’t impress me.

Therefore, conducting one of them as a test was an interesting experiment, and I used my time in Split for this purpose. I’m really happy with the results, and I will get more of this film later, as the results were extremely positive for me.

The Split Jewish Cemetery is more than just a collection of graves; it's a chronicle of a resilient community. Photographing it with LomoChrome '92, a film that celebrates the charm of imperfect and bygone eras, felt like an appropriate if the unconventional, way to engage with its enduring spirit. It was a reminder that beauty and memory can be found not just in perfect clarity but also in the evocative haze of nostalgia.
The Split Jewish Cemetery is more than just a collection of graves; it's a chronicle of a resilient community. Photographing it with LomoChrome '92, a film that celebrates the charm of imperfect and bygone eras, felt like an appropriate if the unconventional, way to engage with its enduring spirit. It was a reminder that beauty and memory can be found not just in perfect clarity but also in the evocative haze of nostalgia.
The Split Jewish Cemetery is more than just a collection of graves; it's a chronicle of a resilient community. Photographing it with LomoChrome '92, a film that celebrates the charm of imperfect and bygone eras, felt like an appropriate if the unconventional, way to engage with its enduring spirit. It was a reminder that beauty and memory can be found not just in perfect clarity but also in the evocative haze of nostalgia.

The magic of old photographs, often taken on inexpensive drugstore film, holds a special kind of magic to some people, including me. They are treasured windows into moments past, infused with a distinct aesthetic quality that, perhaps surprisingly, is making a significant comeback, especially with Gen-Z.

Embracing the Unpredictable: What is LomoChrome Color ’92?

If you’re seeking a film stock that meticulously reproduces the world in its exact hues and tones, LomoChrome ’92 might send you on an unexpected detour. Lomography itself prepares users for “unique color negative emulsion gives each motif a touch of retro charm and classic analogue character.”

It’s a departure from standard ISO 400 color films, such as Kodak UltraMax or Fujifilm Superia. LomoChrome ’92 is naturally experimental. To shoot with it is to invite the unexpected – from intriguing color shifts to peculiar textures and notably oversized grain.

Enjoying LomoChrome ’92 means abandoning a degree of creative control and embracing the results.

My initial scans, before any digital adjustments, were flatter and less punchy than I had anticipated. The grain is also quite chunky for an ISO 400 stock. Some of the shots I took with my Canon F-1 displayed an unappealing greenish cast in the shadow areas. However, this was easily correctable with a little digital post-processing in Lightroom.

In a nutshell, it’s a fun experience. This film isn’t for photographers chasing the finest grain or the most accurate color rendition, and I’m here for that. It’s for those eager to experiment with their 35mm camera and, dare I say, not take film photography too seriously.

After all, uncertainty is one of the most delightful aspects of the analog experience. Does it genuinely evoke the 1990s? Absolutely. The images, with their pronounced grain and slightly cooler tones, transported me straight back to my childhood and the Kodak camera that my family used to carry around Brazil. While far from technically perfect, LomoChrome ’92 is undeniably nostalgic, and that’s precisely its charm.

The Split Jewish Cemetery is more than just a collection of graves; it's a chronicle of a resilient community. Photographing it with LomoChrome '92, a film that celebrates the charm of imperfect and bygone eras, felt like an appropriate if the unconventional, way to engage with its enduring spirit. It was a reminder that beauty and memory can be found not just in perfect clarity but also in the evocative haze of nostalgia.
The Split Jewish Cemetery is more than just a collection of graves; it's a chronicle of a resilient community. Photographing it with LomoChrome '92, a film that celebrates the charm of imperfect and bygone eras, felt like an appropriate if the unconventional, way to engage with its enduring spirit. It was a reminder that beauty and memory can be found not just in perfect clarity but also in the evocative haze of nostalgia.
The Split Jewish Cemetery is more than just a collection of graves; it's a chronicle of a resilient community. Photographing it with LomoChrome '92, a film that celebrates the charm of imperfect and bygone eras, felt like an appropriate if the unconventional, way to engage with its enduring spirit. It was a reminder that beauty and memory can be found not just in perfect clarity but also in the evocative haze of nostalgia.
The Split Jewish Cemetery is more than just a collection of graves; it's a chronicle of a resilient community. Photographing it with LomoChrome '92, a film that celebrates the charm of imperfect and bygone eras, felt like an appropriate if the unconventional, way to engage with its enduring spirit. It was a reminder that beauty and memory can be found not just in perfect clarity but also in the evocative haze of nostalgia.

A Visit to the Historic Split Jewish Cemetery on Marjan Hill

The Split Jewish Cemetery, locally known as the Staro Židovsko Groblje Split, is situated on the eastern slope of Marjan Hill, offering spectacular panoramic views of the city of Split.

The land for the Split Jewish Cemetery was acquired in 1573 by Daniel Rodrigo. A refugee from the Portuguese Inquisition, Rodrigo settled in Split. He played a pivotal role in transforming the city into a key trading, tax collection, and quarantine port for the Republic of Venice. This development benefited both the local Jewish community and Split’s wider population. One significant outcome was the purchase of this land for a proper Jewish cemetery, a considerable improvement as, until then, Jewish burials were relegated to areas outside Christian cemeteries.

Nestled among pine trees on a gentle slope, the Split Jewish Cemetery showcases a centuries-long evolution of grave styles. The oldest tombstones are flat slabs, some shaped like sarcophagus roofs, bearing Hebrew inscriptions carved directly into the stone. In contrast, newer graves, more akin to Croatian graves from similar periods, feature letters set into the slab and display a mix of Hebrew, Croatian, and Italian inscriptions. This is something I have never seen before in other Jewish cemeteries, such as the Jewish Cemetery in Berlin-Weissensee.

The final burial at this sacred site took place in 1945. Following this, the city council closed all urban cemeteries and relocated them to Lovrinac. However, because the Split Jewish Cemetery was owned by the Jewish community itself, it was not moved but was closed to new burials. It now stands preserved as a significant historical monument.

A Deeper Look: The Legacy of Split’s Jewish Community and its cemetery

Split, Croatia’s second-largest city, boasts a rich history that stretches back to its origins as a Greek colony and subsequent Roman rule. Emperor Diocletian, who built his palace here in 293 AD, was among its early prominent figures. Jewish presence in Split dates back to the Roman Empire, with ancient Jewish graves within the Split Jewish Cemetery providing evidence of this long history. One notable tombstone mentions a Jew from Tiberias buried in Split during that era.

Throughout the Middle Ages, the Jewish community, primarily merchants, was active, maintaining a synagogue, a cemetery, and its own court. The 16th century saw an influx of Sephardic Jews fleeing Spain and Portugal. By the mid-17th century, 271 Jews resided in Split, making significant contributions to banking and international trade despite Venetian restrictions. The obligation to live in a ghetto was lifted in 1806 under brief French rule. The subsequent Austrian rule brought prosperity, with Jews excelling in various fields, including medicine, law, engineering, and commercial pursuits.

The cemetery on Marjan Hill, granted to the community in 1573, served for nearly 400 years. Tragically, the Nazis burned the cemetery’s archive in 1942, destroying the original documents. The graveyard holds approximately 700 tombstones, with the oldest reliably dated to 1717 (though some sources suggest 1861).

These markers, typically in the horizontal Sephardic style, are either flat slabs or sarcophagus-roof shapes, often with elaborate Hebrew calligraphy. Two 17th-century tombstones, brought from the islands of Hvar and Brač, are notable for their unique iconographic decorations; one depicts a dove holding an olive branch. At the same time, the other shows an angel ascending a ladder.

Despite some serious vandalism in 2014, the Split Jewish Cemetery remains a unique monument, recognized as one of the oldest in this part of Europe and listed in the state register of national heritage since 1966.

The Split Jewish Cemetery is more than just a collection of graves; it's a chronicle of a resilient community. Photographing it with LomoChrome '92, a film that celebrates the charm of imperfect and bygone eras, felt like an appropriate if the unconventional, way to engage with its enduring spirit. It was a reminder that beauty and memory can be found not just in perfect clarity but also in the evocative haze of nostalgia.
The Split Jewish Cemetery is more than just a collection of graves; it's a chronicle of a resilient community. Photographing it with LomoChrome '92, a film that celebrates the charm of imperfect and bygone eras, felt like an appropriate if the unconventional, way to engage with its enduring spirit. It was a reminder that beauty and memory can be found not just in perfect clarity but also in the evocative haze of nostalgia.
The Split Jewish Cemetery is more than just a collection of graves; it's a chronicle of a resilient community. Photographing it with LomoChrome '92, a film that celebrates the charm of imperfect and bygone eras, felt like an appropriate if the unconventional, way to engage with its enduring spirit. It was a reminder that beauty and memory can be found not just in perfect clarity but also in the evocative haze of nostalgia.

LomoChrome ’92’s Unique Take on the Split Jewish Cemetery

Shooting LomoChrome ’92 at the Split Jewish Cemetery was an intriguing intersection of experimental photography and profound history. The film’s characteristic tones and prominent grain lent a distinct, almost ethereal quality to the ancient tombstones and the tranquil, pine-shaded landscape that surrounded me. The slightly desaturated, flatter initial results from the film, before correction, mirror the quiet, reflective atmosphere of the cemetery.

While the greenish shadows in some frames required adjustment, the vibrant reddish tones, when they appeared, offered a surprising pop against the weathered stone and greenery. Ultimately, the “imperfections” of LomoChrome ’92 – its grain, its color shifts – didn’t detract from the solemn beauty of the Split Jewish Cemetery. Instead, they offered a uniquely nostalgic and somewhat melancholic interpretation, a visual echo of time’s passage, fitting for a place with such a long and storied past.

The Split Jewish Cemetery is more than just a collection of graves; it’s a chronicle of a resilient community. Photographing it with LomoChrome ’92, a film that celebrates the charm of imperfect and bygone eras, felt like an appropriate if the unconventional, way to engage with its enduring spirit. It was a reminder that beauty and memory can be found not just in perfect clarity but also in the evocative haze of nostalgia.

If you find yourself in Split with a love for history and perhaps an experimental film roll in your bag, a visit to the Split Jewish Cemetery offers a profoundly moving experience and a unique photographic opportunity.

LomoChrome ’92 at the Split Jewish Cemetery: Capturing History with a Nostalgic Twist

Split Old Jewish Cemetery (Marjan Hill)
1, Prilaz Vladimira Nazora Street

Felipe Tofani

Felipe Tofani

Felipe Tofani is a passionate designer who loves creating experiences and has a mix of music tastes. As the guy behind this blog, he enjoys finding fascinating places to explore. Whether he’s unearthing up hidden gems or sharing interesting historical stories, Felipe is the creative force behind the content here. Join him on this journey of design, discovery, and some pretty awesome tunes.View Author posts

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