Split is a city where ancient Roman emperors once walked. Glowing white stone creates a labyrinthine old town, and unexpectedly, you can pick up your daily groceries in a building technically under UNESCO protection. Welcome to the curious case of the Unesco-protected Supermarket in Split, a SPAR grocery store that offers a shopping experience quite unlike any other in the world.
I was in Split for a few days early in May 2025, and I loved getting lost among the historic streets in the old town. At one of these moments, I stumbled upon a special place. I found it strange enough to add to my list of modern shops with ancient ruins, like the McDonalds I visited in Rome and the Zara in Athens.
Below, you can read what I learned about this unusual supermarket in Split.
Split’s Most Surprising Stop: The Unesco Supermarket in Diocletian’s Palace
Lodged within Split’s historic core on the Mala Papalićeva Palača ground floor, this isn’t your average supermarket. The building is a treasure, a Gothic structure believed to have originated in the 13th century.
The Mala Papalićeva Palača is part of a larger historical narrative. This palace is located within the boundaries of Diocletian’s Palace, a historic complex that forms the very heart of Split. This sprawling 4th-century palace, built by the Roman emperor Diocletian as his retirement residence, is a remarkably preserved marvel of ancient architecture.
The entire historic center of Split, including Diocletian’s Palace, was rightfully inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1979, recognizing its outstanding universal value.
So, how did a modern supermarket chain set up shop in such a historically significant location? When the Austrian grocery chain Billa (which has since been acquired by SPAR) determined the 2,500-square-foot ground floor of the Mala Papalićeva Palača for a new store in 2014, it raised more than a few eyebrows among Split’s residents. At least, that is what I was told when I asked a tour guide about it.
Many locals had mixed feelings about the arrival of a supermarket in such a beloved historical site. They expressed concerns regarding the suitability of a commercial grocery store operating within the ancient walls. And I can completely understand these concerns.
City officials also voiced worries about the practical implications, such as the logistics of daily deliveries rumbling through historic alleyways and the potential need for new infrastructure in a building that had previously undergone careful conservation, partly funded by the Ministry of Culture. The contrast between modern signage and refrigerator units against Gothic pillars is striking.
Despite the initial surprise and ongoing discussions, this Unesco-protected Supermarket in Split has become a peculiar fixture in the city. For travelers like me, it offers a moment of surreal juxtaposition – one minute, you’re admiring ancient Roman stonework and the next, you’re deciding which brand of beer to buy, all under the same historical watch.
While the city’s magnificent architecture and rich heritage are the primary draws for visitors, stumbling upon this supermarket provides a memorable, if somewhat unusual, travel anecdote. It underlines how Split is not merely an open-air museum but a living, breathing city where daily life intermingles directly with its ancient past.
It’s important to clarify: the supermarket wasn’t directly awarded UNESCO protection. Instead, it benefits from this status by its location within a protected historic monument. This unique situation means you are shopping within a slice of history globally recognized for its cultural importance, leading to the colloquial title of the Unesco-protected Supermarket in Split.
Next time you wander the incredible passageways of Diocletian’s Palace, keep an eye out for a SPAR sign on the street. Popping into a Unesco Supermarket in Split offers more than just a chance to grab a snack; it’s an opportunity to witness a unique crossroad of antiquity and modernity, where the echoes of nobility meet the everyday needs of the 21st century.
It’s a small yet fascinating example of how historic cities continue to adapt and evolve, sometimes in the most unexpected ways. Follow the map below to find your way into this unusual piece of Split.
Unesco Supermarket Split: Where Ancient Walls Meet Aisles of Groceries
Šubićeva 5 7, 21000
Split, Croatia
